MarkD51
Full Access Member
Hello all, first post here.
1997 Tahoe LT (no rear AC) with 39.6K miles, I am the original owner.
Original Compressor developed seal leaks.
Ist replacement compressor, brand new Delphi from Oreillys, with new Drier-Accumulator, and Stock Orifice Tube (from them to attain full warrantee). Was properly evacuated, and charged with 2 lbs R134a, and PAG 150 Oil. No go, AC cycling on for 5-7 seconds, off for 10-12. From dead cold, to warmed up, no leaks)
Changed Low Pressure Switch at Accumulator, no change.
Start all over, new Delphi yanked, brought back to Oreillys, due to I thought it might be bad, seemed a bit noisey, and clutch Gap was only .013"
Got another Delphi under Warrantee, this one ran quieter, had a .020" Clutch Gap.
Went to Chevy Dealer, and this time got an AC/Delco Drier Accumulator, and again, another stock Orifice Tube (confirmed, and both were identical to original, so don't think that's the issue)
System was flushed, blown, AC Compressor Bench Primed and turned before fire up, evacuated, recharged again with first 2lbs refrigerant, then 2.2 lbs, and PAG 150. No changes. All Oil quantities in Compressor-Accumulator were properly adhered to, for a fresh system
Three Low Pressure Cycling Switches replaced, no change.
In the high 70's to low 80's, Vent Temps at Max Setting, is 44.5 F
Clutch Fan appears OK, no change from when vehicle is dead cold upon fire up, to fully warmed up, AC clutch stays kicked in for 5-6 seconds, then kicks out for 10-12.
Will stay on if Low Cycle Switch Plug is Jumpered.
Could there possibly be too much Oil in the system? The Condenser (stock) was not gravity drained.
All new valves in hoses, no leaks detected. But they are the original AC Hoses-Lines.
Or, is it possible controller on dash is bad? All appears to work properly, fan speeds, temp control, etc.
This one has me stumped! Please help folks, I'm at about $900 with this fix, and still no joy. Mark
1997 Tahoe LT (no rear AC) with 39.6K miles, I am the original owner.
Original Compressor developed seal leaks.
Ist replacement compressor, brand new Delphi from Oreillys, with new Drier-Accumulator, and Stock Orifice Tube (from them to attain full warrantee). Was properly evacuated, and charged with 2 lbs R134a, and PAG 150 Oil. No go, AC cycling on for 5-7 seconds, off for 10-12. From dead cold, to warmed up, no leaks)
Changed Low Pressure Switch at Accumulator, no change.
Start all over, new Delphi yanked, brought back to Oreillys, due to I thought it might be bad, seemed a bit noisey, and clutch Gap was only .013"
Got another Delphi under Warrantee, this one ran quieter, had a .020" Clutch Gap.
Went to Chevy Dealer, and this time got an AC/Delco Drier Accumulator, and again, another stock Orifice Tube (confirmed, and both were identical to original, so don't think that's the issue)
System was flushed, blown, AC Compressor Bench Primed and turned before fire up, evacuated, recharged again with first 2lbs refrigerant, then 2.2 lbs, and PAG 150. No changes. All Oil quantities in Compressor-Accumulator were properly adhered to, for a fresh system
Three Low Pressure Cycling Switches replaced, no change.
In the high 70's to low 80's, Vent Temps at Max Setting, is 44.5 F
Clutch Fan appears OK, no change from when vehicle is dead cold upon fire up, to fully warmed up, AC clutch stays kicked in for 5-6 seconds, then kicks out for 10-12.
Will stay on if Low Cycle Switch Plug is Jumpered.
Could there possibly be too much Oil in the system? The Condenser (stock) was not gravity drained.
All new valves in hoses, no leaks detected. But they are the original AC Hoses-Lines.
Or, is it possible controller on dash is bad? All appears to work properly, fan speeds, temp control, etc.
This one has me stumped! Please help folks, I'm at about $900 with this fix, and still no joy. Mark
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