2003 Tahoe door speakers not working

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Gunner

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My driver's door Bose speaker stopped working so I removed it and tried testing it with a stereo and it didn't work. I also tested the wire lead going to that speaker in the drivers door with my multi-meter and got a signal.

The passenger side door speaker was working fine, so I moved it over to the passenger side to see if it would work there and it didn't.

I then tired the driver door speaker on the passenger side door and this didn't work either.

I then put everything back the way it was originally and now neither door speaker works.

Would turning on the radio with one speaker disconnected harm the radio?

Any thoughts about what is wrong? Any further testing ideas?

Thanks.
 

EMF Audio

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No, turning it on with something disconnected won't harm it. Did you turn the radio off every time you were connecting and disconnecting?
 

Gunner

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Thanks for your reply. The radio was off (or the car was off) while I was installing the speakers. I tested the ouput from a home stereo with a multi-meter and got a signal. I then tested the leads going into the speakers on both doors and got similar signals as I did with the home stereo. I then connected the door speakers to the home stereo and neither speaker worked (even though one of these was working when I removed it from the door). I bypassed the plastic connector just in case it was defective by attaching the leads directly to the two wires past the connector.
 

EMF Audio

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Thanks for your reply. The radio was off (or the car was off) while I was installing the speakers. I tested the ouput from a home stereo with a multi-meter and got a signal. I then tested the leads going into the speakers on both doors and got similar signals as I did with the home stereo. I then connected the door speakers to the home stereo and neither speaker worked (even though one of these was working when I removed it from the door). I bypassed the plastic connector just in case it was defective by attaching the leads directly to the two wires past the connector.

It sounds like your speakers were on the way out and moving them around finished them off. Those factory speakers are known for going in and out when you hit bumps or close doors before they finally die all together. You can easily determine that with your DMM, check impedance of the speakers. If you don't get anything "normal" then they are toast. I think those will be 4 ohm speakers, should read 3.4-4.2 ohms.
 

Gunner

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Speaker connections

Looks like it is due to corrosion at the connectors. One wire on the speaker side of the connector was so deteriorated that it looked more like string than copper. I think if I replace the connectors it might work out. Pretty sure at this point that the stereo itself is okay. How much are new Bose door speakers?
 

EMF Audio

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Looks like it is due to corrosion at the connectors. One wire on the speaker side of the connector was so deteriorated that it looked more like string than copper. I think if I replace the connectors it might work out. Pretty sure at this point that the stereo itself is okay. How much are new Bose door speakers?

At the connector itself on the back side of it, it's corroded? Not at the cone? Are you sure it's corrosion and not just ripped? Is it black at all?

Bose speakers aren't worth getting. Aftermarket will be cheaper and sound better.
 

Gunner

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Connectors

The wires on the face of the speaker cone look good. One of the wires at the clip was deteriorated, so I cut that wire back and soldered an extension wire to it, cleaned up the mating surface of the clip and soldered the new wire to it.
I tested the speaker pins using my home stereo, and the Bose speaker plays which is a good step forward. I tested the stereo side by inserting two small finish nails into the clip and wiring these to an old speaker I had laying around and that worked well.
So it looks like the clip is not making a good connection. If I could get new connectors I think I'd be back in business.
 

EMF Audio

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The wires on the face of the speaker cone look good. One of the wires at the clip was deteriorated, so I cut that wire back and soldered an extension wire to it, cleaned up the mating surface of the clip and soldered the new wire to it.
I tested the speaker pins using my home stereo, and the Bose speaker plays which is a good step forward. I tested the stereo side by inserting two small finish nails into the clip and wiring these to an old speaker I had laying around and that worked well.
So it looks like the clip is not making a good connection. If I could get new connectors I think I'd be back in business.

Interesting, that must be what fails on all the factory speakers then. You'd be better of taking that connector apart and soldering your own wire on. Or, soldering to the lead at the connector.
 

Gunner

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This could be a case of galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals (copper wire, silver solder, tin connectors, exposure to moisture, etc). I called the Bose Automotive Support number yesterday where a support person repeatedly informed me that the problem was the stereo amplifier. I tried explaining the steps I went thru (getting a signal at both connectors, one speaker was working until I disconnected it and then stopped working, etc) as I did in this forum. It was obvious that she wasn't equipped to engage in a detailed discussionl which I didn't mind, but her know-it-all smug attitude implying that I was clueless was reason enough for me to hang up the phone.
I wonder how many thousands of Chevy owners who's speakers stopped working have been advised by Bose Support to rip out their stereos and send them off for an expensive repair or to purchase new Bose stereos and speakers from their GM Dealership when the real problem is a poorly designed plastic speaker connector that doesn't hold up in the weather elements and probably cost Bose less than a dollar each. Too bad their support people aren't trained to listen to their customers and perhaps learn something in the process.

Thanks again for your help. I have one door speaker back up and running and I"ll try replacing the connector on the other side with a different connector as you suggested.
 
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