Any other suggestion?

[thdrill]

Hey all, like all of us here I love my 03 Tahoe and the versatility it provides me and my family. I have no intentions on trading it in for a more fuel efficient vehicle that won't serve my family the way my hoe does. However I am trying to get the most out of it I can...So far I have switched out the spark plugs to the lsg brisk HALO version, upgraded to the True Flow SAI, and got a performance tune. All of this and I haven't seen much in the way of an increase in efficiency...decent amount in performance though . I know I live in Jersey and they do this whole adding ethanol in the winter months, but I was hoping for a little more from the mods. I usually purchase regular (87 octane) fuel from a non-name brand station and am pretty good on tire inflation and routine maintenance (oil changes and all). I was wondering if anyone had any ideas to help me squeeze a littel more efficiency out of this 5000 lb rolling air brake.

5.3L V8
4x4
44500 bought used in August this year now with 46000 miles
Travel is usually local city (approx 90% city 10% highway)

 

[bzbatl]

If money's no object, there's TONS of mods. Choosing the brand/type is the hard part.

- get 87 octane from a top-tier fuel provider
- did you change the wires with the plugs, too?
- underdrive pulley system
- electric fans, electric water pump
- redtop battery
- some people swear by Royal Purple, moly-based synthetic oils certainly can't hurt
- don't drive like a maniac, and don't use the 4x4 setting
- reduce weight inside the vehicle: don't have junk in the trunk or fat chicks in the passenger seats

 

[Rollin Thunder]

If money's no object, there's TONS of mods. Choosing the brand/type is the hard part.

don't have junk in the trunk or fat chicks in the passenger seats

:smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol:

sorry getwired cant ride in his hoe (j/k just have to rag you back:thumbsup: )


nother thing, is dont brake if you can over 35 mph if you can, just let off the gas and let aerodinamics slow you down. if its nice, dont use a/c use windows,.

little electronics can use power which in turn uses gas, not much but every bit helps, if your not watching the movie turn it off. if your phone is done chargin, un plug it.

also if money is no object i would go to a yellow top battery.

 

[thdrill]

Is getting gas from a top=tier company that much of a difference? What are the differences between the red top/yellow top batteries and how do they change fuel efficiency? Any suggestions on spark plug wires?

 

[bzbatl]

Check the sticky in this forum about top tier gas.

Red top, yellow top are deep-cycle batteries that both provide more consistent, cleaner voltage, and more cranking amps for cold starts. Yellow top is more expensive and beefier - a lot of people that do competition audio (you know, the big booming bass systems) use these types of big batteries. They charge quicker than stock, are zero maintenance, and typically last a lot longer than conventional batteries.

At 100k I changed out plugs and wires, and took a long time deciding what I was going to get. I don't have a suggestion on plug wires, I ended up just getting the colored ACCEL brand from Napa, I believe.

I think people are saying gap em to .60. I followed manufacturer's specs, I can't remember what it is.

 

[Rollin Thunder]

Check the sticky in this forum about top tier gas.

Red top, yellow top are deep-cycle batteries that both provide more consistent, cleaner voltage, and more cranking amps for cold starts. Yellow top is more expensive and beefier - a lot of people that do competition audio (you know, the big booming bass systems) use these types of big batteries. They charge quicker than stock, are zero maintenance, and typically last a lot longer than conventional batteries.

At 100k I changed out plugs and wires, and took a long time deciding what I was going to get. I don't have a suggestion on plug wires, I ended up just getting the colored ACCEL brand from Napa, I believe.

I think people are saying gap em to .60. I followed manufacturer's specs, I can't remember what it is.

i upgraded to a yellow top and a 200 amp alternator and went from 13.5- 15, so i dont know what that did, i also switched to shell top tier insted of an off brand, and once a month or when i tow the boat i use 93.

 

[bzbatl]

just let off the gas and let aerodinamics slow you down

Have you ever noticed that when you let off the brakes in traffic, you seem to catch up to others that are doing the same?

Damn some aerodynamics and physics. I guess it's the weight of the beast.

I think JK was talking about fabbing some plates to reduce drag underneath. Maybe he can start a new company :yesnod:

 

[thdrill]

Most of the gas stations around me are Getty, Exxon, Valero, Raceway, Hess, Gulf, and Shell. Are any of these top-tier?

 

[bzbatl]

Shell is. The others you'll have to reference to this:

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

Usually they'll say it on the machines or in marketing type signs outside the store. QT has it everywhere.

 

[JKmotorsports]

You can get a custom pcm tune to get a real decent increase in gas mileage. A lot of parameters can be altered to get a tune customized for performance, economy, or a little of both. And the tune will help get the most out of your other mods as well.

 

[thdrill]

I did get a pcm tune from wait4meperformance...I have noticed a change in shifting and such. After I posted I realized that the plugs I have by their design burn hotter, so if there isn't enough fuel or not enough octane it may be an explaination for the rough idle I am experiencing.

Or maybe it is just the fact that Jersey has the ethanol additive for the winter and I just have to wait until the summer months to get decent performance. But I think I'll try the Shell station a little further from me than my usual non-branded station for a few tanks and see what happens.

 

[JKmotorsports]

I did get a pcm tune from wait4meperformance...I have noticed a change in shifting and such. After I posted I realized that the plugs I have by their design burn hotter, so if there isn't enough fuel or not enough octane it may be an explaination for the rough idle I am experiencing...

Did you have to get the crank relearn procedure performed after the pcm tune?

 

[thdrill]

not yet, having difficulty finding a shop in my area that can do it.

1) Would that cause similar problems...I don't have any error messages after about 400 miles?
2) Am I correct in my asking about a crankshaft relearn or is it a crank relearn?
3) Am I correct in my understanding that the procedure is meant to help the transmission understand the difference between a regular engine firing and a misfire, or is it something different and the reason I am having problems finding a place to get it done is i am not explaining it right?