Changing Oil: Warning

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GoldmistXL

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I just changed the oil in my 2007 Denali XL and learned something the hard way.

For anyone doing this themselves, please note that the oil drain plug/bolt faces sideways, not down. Why does this matter?

Because once you unthread the oil plug, the oil shoots out sideways approx 12"-18", instead of straight down. So instead of the first quart of oil going into the collection pan, it went all over me and the floor of my garage.

Don't let this happen to you. Make certain that the oil collection pan is positioned so that when the oil shoots sideways the pan will catch it and not allow it to shoot out all over the place.

What is the best way to clean the residual motor oil off of the concrete?

FYI: I used Royal Purple synthetic oil because I read on another forum that Mobil One is now using a cheaper base element that is not true synthetic and is not as good. Amsoil and Royal Purple respectively are now the two best motor oils available.
 

Hardin Thicke

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A small pail is the best container to use. It allows you to hold it up on an angle to catch the initial gush, and then place it on the floor as the flow subsides. I use a 3 gallon pail that once held chlorine tablets. It just fits under the truck after I drive it up onto a stack of wood planks.
 

Jayce030

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FYI: I used Royal Purple synthetic oil because I read on another forum that Mobil One is now using a cheaper base element that is not true synthetic and is not as good. Amsoil and Royal Purple respectively are now the two best motor oils available.

can anyone confirm this? Will be changing my oil next weekend....
 

JD Larue

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Oh man, that's funny. I had the same experience except I saw the drain plug pointing sideways so I put the pan in the right place. The problem I had was that while it was draining I went to do something else and when I got back underneath the flow wasn't as strong and it drained straight down onto the garage floor so the last couple of quarts went on the concrete. Oh well. Live and freakin learn huh?
 

sweetjeeps

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put a lot of speedy dry on the spill for a few hours to soak it up then grind it into the floor with a block of wood til its pretty much dust, then sweep it up, repeat if necassary, it happens in my shop a lot.
 

White Out

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I just loosen the plug and let the oil drain out slowly. After 20 seconds I remove the plug, keeping the oil fill cap on. Never had a problem with the oil shooting out using this method. I also placed the oil pan so that it would catch oil if it did "shoot" out.

Also, I picked up an adjustable oil filter socket. I attempted to remove the filter by hand (like every other car), slipped and now my wrist has a lovely scar from where it hit the cat. Defintaly worth the $3 at autozone.

Nick
 

TN Tahoe

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FYI: I used Royal Purple synthetic oil because I read on another forum that Mobil One is now using a cheaper base element that is not true synthetic and is not as good. Amsoil and Royal Purple respectively are now the two best motor oils available.

I've used Mobil 1 since 1999 with my first Corvette. I've read several reviews on it regarding if it is a true synthetic, I have not found anything that shows it is not. I placed a link to Mobil 1 site below were they state 5w30 is a FULL synthetic oil. It comes down to what you like, if your not going with Mobil 1 I would use Royal Purple. :thumbsup:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.asp

PS:Welcome to the forum!!
 
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S.V.T.

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Oh man, that's funny. I had the same experience except I saw the drain plug pointing sideways so I put the pan in the right place. The problem I had was that while it was draining I went to do something else and when I got back underneath the flow wasn't as strong and it drained straight down onto the garage floor so the last couple of quarts went on the concrete. Oh well. Live and freakin learn huh?

this is true to the degree that m1 is less synthetic than some of the other brands available like amsoil or RP; however, these trucks don't have race motors. even if you are pushing your truck's limits if you want something better then the factory recommeneded stuff use M1 you'll be fine. plus good luck finding amsoil and RP at stores that won't cost you an arm and a leg. you can ALWAYS go to walmart and buy m1 and an oil filter -- you cannot buy RP or amsoil there.
to my knowledge no motor oil is fully synthetic.
i have owned several 400+whp subarus and 500whp+ cobra mustangs and i've used mobil 1 fwiw.

+1 on kitty litter as well, i've worked in shops and it's what we used.
 

Black Dog

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From what I've seen Amsoil is the best, then Royal Purple and Redline, then all the rest. Mobil 1 is good but not the best, and yes it is synthesized from a dino base or something like that, where Amsoil is fully synthetic from scratch. But it's true that Mobil 1 is good enough to not matter in these trucks, and easy to get. Did you know that the general Amsoil 5w30 has a recommended oil change interval of 25,000 miles under normal duty? But this is just from the extra additives that keep the oil good, not the oil itself, and I would never wait that long anyway.
 

RMC_SS_LDO

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....I read on another forum that Mobil One is now using a cheaper base element that is not true synthetic and is not as good. Amsoil and Royal Purple respectively are now the two best motor oils available.

As far as the re-formulation of M1, it did infact change ratings from SL to SM. It has a different additive package now than a few years ago.

Not to get into a huge debate over oils and the variances in the two ratings, the bottom line is the move to SM is in favor of emissions at the expense of protection.

I have shifted to M1 for turbo-diesel applications. It is still rated at the previous SL rating and based on some analysis reports some have done, it actually doesn't sheer down as quickly. I use it in the Tahoe and the 300C SRT8. I have shifted the bikes to Royal Purple and my still shift the cars if I can find it at a good price, but M1 is great for now. If you poke around some Porche forums, they are quite informed about the M1 turbo-diesel (TD) oil since oil is critical to cooling their rides. I heard about the TD from them initially and did some research- they're dead on about it.

With all of that said, I agree about the angle of the plug. My daughter was changing the oil in the Tahoe and did a number on the concrete! Side note- my 15yr old daughter is quite handy; here's a couple pics of her working on her truck....

v/r

Allen
 

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tekkitan

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With all of that said, I agree about the angle of the plug. My daughter was changing the oil in the Tahoe and did a number on the concrete! Side note- my 15yr old daughter is quite handy; here's a couple pics of her working on her truck....

v/r

Allen

she'll make some lucky man very happy some day :)
 

RMC_SS_LDO

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she'll make some lucky man very happy some day :)

I think she'll drive them nutz!

When she finds that "special" guy, he will have no question that this aint Wal-Mart....

Once you bought it, we don't do returns! :smilielol:


Honestly, she's a good egg most of the time! I just won't let her drive the Tahoe or 300 just yet..... Maybe after she pays for a few more oil changes on them and does them......
 

quikag

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I just did my first oil change at 2,400 miles on my Yukon Denali. I drove it on ramps, spilled oil all over the place when it shot out sideways, replaced the filter (PF48), and added 6 quarts of M1.

I checked the oil on level ground cold the next morning after it sat overnight and it was reading approximately a half quart high. Should I check it hot? I even jacked up the truck a bit on the driver's side to get the last bit of oil out. Am I doing something wrong?
 

hoser

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As far as the re-formulation of M1, it did infact change ratings from SL to SM. It has a different additive package now than a few years ago.

Not to get into a huge debate over oils and the variances in the two ratings, the bottom line is the move to SM is in favor of emissions at the expense of protection.

I have shifted to M1 for turbo-diesel applications. It is still rated at the previous SL rating and based on some analysis reports some have done, it actually doesn't sheer down as quickly. I use it in the Tahoe and the 300C SRT8. I have shifted the bikes to Royal Purple and my still shift the cars if I can find it at a good price, but M1 is great for now. If you poke around some Porche forums, they are quite informed about the M1 turbo-diesel (TD) oil since oil is critical to cooling their rides. I heard about the TD from them initially and did some research- they're dead on about it.

With all of that said, I agree about the angle of the plug. My daughter was changing the oil in the Tahoe and did a number on the concrete! Side note- my 15yr old daughter is quite handy; here's a couple pics of her working on her truck....

v/r

Allen


Good info thanks, keep in mind any oil company can put what ever rating they want on the side of a oil bottle, their is nobody that TEST their oil to ensure it complys to any standards, your taking their word on this, just like the smiling bob commercials:)
 

Rollin Thunder

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I just did my first oil change at 2,400 miles on my Yukon Denali. I drove it on ramps, spilled oil all over the place when it shot out sideways, replaced the filter (PF48), and added 6 quarts of M1.

I checked the oil on level ground cold the next morning after it sat overnight and it was reading approximately a half quart high. Should I check it hot? I even jacked up the truck a bit on the driver's side to get the last bit of oil out. Am I doing something wrong?

you need to start it first and let it run for 5 seconds before you check it. That way the oil circulates though. Try that, if you have not already.
 

quikag

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Just checked it hot a few minutes after my wife got back and it's still a touch high. The normal operating range has 4 holes and it's about one hole length above the top hole. So, I'm guessing it's about a 1/4 quart high. I'm presuming it's not a big deal?
 

Hardin Thicke

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Just checked it hot a few minutes after my wife got back and it's still a touch high. The normal operating range has 4 holes and it's about one hole length above the top hole. So, I'm guessing it's about a 1/4 quart high. I'm presuming it's not a big deal?

Assuming you're 8 oz. over, no, it's not a big deal at all. There's a lot of oil circulating around the engine during operation so that small amount over is fine. I had a truck that used 11 quarts. That extra quart left over was a pain, so I would pour it in with the other 11. No problems.
 
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