Embarrassed...oil change question...

[07TahoeLTZ]

Driving and owning cars for 18 years now, I have never changed the oil in a car...always took it to the closest 'quicky lube'....most of this was because I never had a garage. Now I do and have been told the Tahoe sits up high enough to not need to use a jack and stands. I have 500 miles and want to get rid of the original oil and filter and run another 1000 miles on regular oil and then make the change to synthetic (I have 12 quarts of 10W30 Royal Purple waiting).....anyway, is there an 'instruction guide' to changing the oil...I know you need to drain the oil (where is plug), remove oil filter with strap wrench, put a little oil on new oil filter seal, screw it in, replace drain plug and put in six new quarts, but putting on paper is easier than doing...like where to drain old six quarts, etc.....any guidance appreciated. Thanks!

 

[rod456]

First, there is not enough room under a Tahoe without lifting or ramps to change the oil.

Second, you will need a pad to drain the oil in and recover for recycling. You can purchase at any auto parts store. Make sure you put the pan far enough to the side to catch it when you pull the plug out, otherwise it will overshoot your pan.

Third, you will need a good filter wrench, one that fits the bottom of the filter exactly or one that is adjustable. Talk to your auto parts store for more details. I have one from Girot's garage that works great.

Fourth, after you have drained all the oil and removed the filter, replace the plug, snuggly but don't overtighten.

Fifth, pour some oil our of one quart of your 6 in your new filter and rub oil on the rubber gasket on the filter.

Sixth, screw the new filter on and tighten by hand, and then use your wrench to snug it on another 1/2 turn. Do not overtighten!!!

Then, pour the remains from the open quart you used to fill the filter in the filler cap and all the remaining quarts. Should be 6 total quarts with filter.

Then, start ur up and check for leaks.

Simple as that. But I do suggest a good set of ramps vs. jacking. If you do use a jack, make sure you use jackstands, do not trust the jack with your life underneath the vehicle.

Good Luck and be safe.

 

[73shark]

Don't be surprised if you have to buy the filter (AC PF-48) at your dealer's parts dept. Stay away from Fram. Recommend on in addition to what rod456 said is to put down some newspaper cuz it always seems like some oil finds a way to miss the drain pan. I like the large plastic ones that are enclosed and have a spout to transfer the used oil into some plastic gallon jugs that you have probably saved for just this purpose. Also good to do it when to oil is hot because more crud will be in suspension then. Oh yeah and be sure to chock one of the rear wheels whether you use ramps or jack stands. :thumbsup:

 

[07TahoeLTZ]

Thanks guys....

Since this will be the first time under a car since I used to help my dad grease all the fittings back in the day, what color is the oil plug and near what? I hate to get ramps, etc. etc. and slide under there (WITH safety glass on...note for all...a little piece of grit/rust in an eye will mostly likely lead to emergency room for flushing and antibiotics for scratched eye) and go hmmm.."no plug"...heheheeh..

 

[73shark]

Yoy'll have no problem seeing the plug. It's silver/gray on the bottom edge on the passenger side just behind the crossmember. There are only two grease zerks, one on each tie rod end. Ball joints lubed for life, whatever that means. Let it drain as long as you can. A GM guy on another forum recommended adding the last quart after the engine had been started an run a minute or two, then shut off and let the oil drain back. Add enuf of the final quart to bring up to the full mark.

 

[07TahoeLTZ]

Thanks...

Yoy'll have no problem seeing the plug. It's silver/gray on the bottom edge on the passenger side just behind the crossmember. There are only two grease zerks, one on each tie rod end. Ball joints lubed for life, whatever that means. Let it drain as long as you can. A GM guy on another forum recommended adding the last quart after the engine had been started an run a minute or two, then shut off and let the oil drain back. Add enuf of the final quart to bring up to the full mark.

What do you use to loosen the plug (socket, screwdriver, etc. etc.)?

 

[kpanza]

Use a socket to get the drain plug out...if you do this with the motor hot, you'll want to wear some gloves and cover your arms, etc with some rags or something...that oil will burn ya! I don't do it hot, maybe lukewarm at most...and like was said above, don't just add six quarts of oil like a robot, add about 5 to 5 1/2 and check the level...you NEVER get ALL of the old oil out, so if you just dump 6 qts in afterwards, most likely you'll be a little overfull, which isn't desired.

Also, you really shouldn't need a wrench to install or remove the filter...most people put these things on way tighter than they need to be...you should go hand tight, and then just give it one more firm twist...it isn't a strength contest. I've never had one loosen at all using this method, and if you go too far and strip it, you'll have a hell of a problem on your hands...

Also, fill the new filter up as much as you can before installing - this will help prevent oil starvation at startup. Admittedly, I haven't even looked under the Tahoe yet, but unless the filter is mounted sideways, fill it up, it should take almost a quart...

Oh, and don't pull a Jiffy Lube and forget to re-install the drain plug before filling! ha,ha (It's happened many times!)

 

[Donzi4me]

What do you use to loosen the plug (socket, screwdriver, etc. etc.)?

Here's my .02....

If you are not comfortable working on or under autos, it's best to let the pro's do it. I'll give you an A for effort for wanting to change the oil, but for an extra $20 of what the oil and filter will cost you, you can let your local GM dealer do this for you while you sit and enjoy a cup of coffee.

Now I change oil in all my vehicles, but it's getting to the point where I dread getting the jack, jack stands, tools, rags, drain pan, etc. etc. out to do the job. Must be my age catching up with me. I'm thinking extra $20 and clean hands, clean clothes, no recycle of old oil, and a cup of coffee, cookie, and the news on the TV, sounds like a deal to me.

Good Luck in whatever you choose....:thumbsup:

 

[07TahoeLTZ]

I agree...

Here's my .02....

If you are not comfortable working on or under autos, it's best to let the pro's do it. I'll give you an A for effort for wanting to change the oil, but for an extra $20 of what the oil and filter will cost you, you can let your local GM dealer do this for you while you sit and enjoy a cup of coffee.

Now I change oil in all my vehicles, but it's getting to the point where I dread getting the jack, jack stands, tools, rags, drain pan, etc. etc. out to do the job. Must be my age catching up with me. I'm thinking extra $20 and clean hands, clean clothes, no recycle of old oil, and a cup of coffee, cookie, and the news on the TV, sounds like a deal to me.

Good Luck in whatever you choose....:thumbsup:

My plan is to put good oil regular oil in this time so I might as well let a shop do it...at 1500 miles I want to put synthetic in and I have 12 quarts of 10W30 Royal Purple....has anyone ever taken their oil to a shop and ask them to use it...wonder what they would say!?

 

[Lil Johnys Chevy]

Good call i was getting scared while reading.

 

[07TahoeLTZ]

Yep....

Good call i was getting scared while reading.

Anyone have experience having a shop change oil using your own oil?

 

[Hardin Thicke]

First, there is not enough room under a Tahoe without lifting or ramps to change the oil.

Hmmm...I can get under it fine. It's a little snug, but I can do it. What is a mess is the draining process. The plug is on the side of the pan, so when you release the plug, the oil shoots sideways. You have to plan how far the stream is going to go. If you're uncomfortable in tight quarters, you can do this. Lay 2 2x8's on the ground, followed be another stacked on top of that, but offest by a foot. The Tahoe will easily roll up onto the first board, and then onto the other and you're lifted almose 4 inches. I've found that the air dam hits my old steel ramps.

 

[Lil Johnys Chevy]

I dont think any lube shop would have any problem running your own oil, but you will still get charged the same rate as if they ran their oil.

 

[07TahoeLTZ]

Thanks...

I dont think any lube shop would have any problem running your own oil, but you will still get charged the same rate as if they ran their oil.

Buyt that defeats the purpose of me taking advantage of the 12 free quarts of Royal Purple I have.......

 

[slicktoptt]

You should have no problem taking in your own oil. I take Mobil 1 in for my twin turbo Z in all the time. All they do is charge me for the filter and the labor.
Don't know what the other guy is talking about them charging you for their oil?? That makes no sense at all.

I do most of the work on all my cars but I let dealers do oil changes. Not worth my time or hassle. Like the other guy said, have some coffee and a donut, read the paper and their done in a few minutes...but try to go on a Sat. afternoon instead of in the morning. Always get me right in.

 

[73shark]

Also, you really shouldn't need a wrench to install or remove the filter...most people put these things on way tighter than they need to be...you should go hand tight, and then just give it one more firm twist...it isn't a strength contest. I've never had one loosen at all using this method, and if you go too far and strip it, you'll have a hell of a problem on your hands...
QUOTE]

Every original factory filter I've had to remove felt like it was welded on. Also every new filter says to tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn after gasket touches which you can usually do without a wrench but not always. I'd be very surprised if he can get it off w/o a wrench.

 

[07TahoeLTZ]

I called my local dealer...

Also, you really shouldn't need a wrench to install or remove the filter...most people put these things on way tighter than they need to be...you should go hand tight, and then just give it one more firm twist...it isn't a strength contest. I've never had one loosen at all using this method, and if you go too far and strip it, you'll have a hell of a problem on your hands...
QUOTE]

Every original factory filter I've had to remove felt like it was welded on. Also every new filter says to tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn after gasket touches which you can usually do without a wrench but not always. I'd be very surprised if he can get it off w/o a wrench.

To get my oil changed at 600 miles and he said I was waisting my money..that all GM engines are 'run in' at the factory and when we buy them they are already on their first oil change oil...any thoughts?