Well I'm done, My 99 Yukon I've owned since new is up and running well.
I know I'm late to the game as there are tons of video, youtube, and narrative out there, this is just my observations about my gasket/spider upgrade, I followed several of the videos, and asked questions on this forum when I was uncertain.
When I first cranked it up it ran, but badly.
Of course the usual suspect was the timing, well after didly fartin with the timing at the end of the second day, I decided it was not the timing, but that I had committed an error some where, so I went back and removed everything a second time down to the lower intake.
The spider was not sitting 'up' in the plenum as it should, so I checked the fitment of the old spider to the upper intake and it would not fall into place, so I sprayed white lithium grease on a paper towel, and applied with a Q tip to the inside of the upper manifold and the gasket on the old spider, it slipped together perfect. I then greased the new spider gasket/spark plug boots/vacuum hoses, and used it to hold distributor gasket in place.
Also found 2 injectors that were not fully seated, double checked everything and began reassembly.
I was sure this was my problem.
When I was finished with the second install, it fired up immediately and idled out nicely.
Ran it about 15 miles, everything within parameters, seems a little stronger, no leaks.
Here are some of my suggestions/observations.
1. I removed the battery completely, put a rag in the tray to hold parts/tools, my Yukon had the spare battery holder on the drivers side so I did the same there. very easy to reach tools and parts when lying on the engine.
2. speaking of lying on the engine, if you have a old an old cushion lying about, you may want to put it good use, lot easier than lying on the hood latch.
3. Went to Home Depot and picked up a fluid transfer pump to remove antifreeze without getting under the engine to loosen a hose and perhaps getting wet in the process. ...worked for me, removed almost 2 gals.
4. You need a shop lite, but a little 9 led flash lite will serve you well.
A cheap set of picks, an extendable mirror, and extendable pick up magnet from harbor freight will do.
You will loose something.
5. The wiring harness that comes to the front passenger side and goes down pass the alternator can be loosened by releasing the clips that hold it, rather than unbolting etc, some youtube clips say to unbolt, but aint necessary.
6. TDC here is what I know about TDC .
It would appear easier to set #1 at TDC before tearing into the engine, this way marking your distributor/rotor is not needed.
The distributor is already marked with a dimple at the bottom of the shaft, a factory applied white mark further up the shaft, and the figure '8' inside the rim of the distributor body.
When turning the engine by hand have a piece of chalk handy to mark your TDC for reference if needed under the vehicle.
I had an old 350 distributor left over from the mid 80's and used it the align the slot down in the well hole.
I could not do it with a screwdriver.
6. Spider body/Upper plenum must be lubricated to seat properly, also double check the injection hoses for a tight fit.
7. Some things on this engine need not be there, these are harness supports. I did away with 3 or 4. The big one in the rear holding the main wiring harness was removed with a dremmel and folded back so it cant cut you.
The bottom portion is still bolted to the engine and supports the harness very well.
8. Cam retard.......so far the engine is running as before, so I guess I hit the sweet spot.
9. I could not fit the Dorman quick disconnect no matter what I tried, finally re-installed the old one, it came out easy and went in easy. No leaks.
10. The last time I worked on an engine to this extent was the mid 80's rebuilding a 350 Small Block for my 1969 Impala convertible, I was also putting a Buick V6 into a 47 CJ2A about the same time.
This 5.7 Vortec was new to me, and I was slowed down with weather, and uncertainty about some fasteners, connections, and other little nuisances.
At 78 years old I got er done in decent fashion.
Time spent spanned 13 days, several days of wind/cold/rain, plus I have vertigo (That'll make you sit down a while.... hell to get old).
Worked an average of 4 hrs per day so that puts me at about 5 days for the gasket/spider fix.
A shop down the street wanted $850 to replace the gaskets and the spider, no parts.
was it worth it.........in the end ....yes.
I was able to replace small parts as I went, and the clean/prep job is much better.
AND......I know now how it works.
I know I'm late to the game as there are tons of video, youtube, and narrative out there, this is just my observations about my gasket/spider upgrade, I followed several of the videos, and asked questions on this forum when I was uncertain.
When I first cranked it up it ran, but badly.
Of course the usual suspect was the timing, well after didly fartin with the timing at the end of the second day, I decided it was not the timing, but that I had committed an error some where, so I went back and removed everything a second time down to the lower intake.
The spider was not sitting 'up' in the plenum as it should, so I checked the fitment of the old spider to the upper intake and it would not fall into place, so I sprayed white lithium grease on a paper towel, and applied with a Q tip to the inside of the upper manifold and the gasket on the old spider, it slipped together perfect. I then greased the new spider gasket/spark plug boots/vacuum hoses, and used it to hold distributor gasket in place.
Also found 2 injectors that were not fully seated, double checked everything and began reassembly.
I was sure this was my problem.
When I was finished with the second install, it fired up immediately and idled out nicely.
Ran it about 15 miles, everything within parameters, seems a little stronger, no leaks.
Here are some of my suggestions/observations.
1. I removed the battery completely, put a rag in the tray to hold parts/tools, my Yukon had the spare battery holder on the drivers side so I did the same there. very easy to reach tools and parts when lying on the engine.
2. speaking of lying on the engine, if you have a old an old cushion lying about, you may want to put it good use, lot easier than lying on the hood latch.
3. Went to Home Depot and picked up a fluid transfer pump to remove antifreeze without getting under the engine to loosen a hose and perhaps getting wet in the process. ...worked for me, removed almost 2 gals.
4. You need a shop lite, but a little 9 led flash lite will serve you well.
A cheap set of picks, an extendable mirror, and extendable pick up magnet from harbor freight will do.
You will loose something.
5. The wiring harness that comes to the front passenger side and goes down pass the alternator can be loosened by releasing the clips that hold it, rather than unbolting etc, some youtube clips say to unbolt, but aint necessary.
6. TDC here is what I know about TDC .
It would appear easier to set #1 at TDC before tearing into the engine, this way marking your distributor/rotor is not needed.
The distributor is already marked with a dimple at the bottom of the shaft, a factory applied white mark further up the shaft, and the figure '8' inside the rim of the distributor body.
When turning the engine by hand have a piece of chalk handy to mark your TDC for reference if needed under the vehicle.
I had an old 350 distributor left over from the mid 80's and used it the align the slot down in the well hole.
I could not do it with a screwdriver.
6. Spider body/Upper plenum must be lubricated to seat properly, also double check the injection hoses for a tight fit.
7. Some things on this engine need not be there, these are harness supports. I did away with 3 or 4. The big one in the rear holding the main wiring harness was removed with a dremmel and folded back so it cant cut you.
The bottom portion is still bolted to the engine and supports the harness very well.
8. Cam retard.......so far the engine is running as before, so I guess I hit the sweet spot.
9. I could not fit the Dorman quick disconnect no matter what I tried, finally re-installed the old one, it came out easy and went in easy. No leaks.
10. The last time I worked on an engine to this extent was the mid 80's rebuilding a 350 Small Block for my 1969 Impala convertible, I was also putting a Buick V6 into a 47 CJ2A about the same time.
This 5.7 Vortec was new to me, and I was slowed down with weather, and uncertainty about some fasteners, connections, and other little nuisances.
At 78 years old I got er done in decent fashion.
Time spent spanned 13 days, several days of wind/cold/rain, plus I have vertigo (That'll make you sit down a while.... hell to get old).
Worked an average of 4 hrs per day so that puts me at about 5 days for the gasket/spider fix.
A shop down the street wanted $850 to replace the gaskets and the spider, no parts.
was it worth it.........in the end ....yes.
I was able to replace small parts as I went, and the clean/prep job is much better.
AND......I know now how it works.
