replacing rear brake pads

[tahoeray830]

I need to replace the rear brake pads on my 01 Tahoe, and not being particulary mechanically inclined (I have successfully replaced the front pads and rotors on my wife's Dodge Intrepid), I was wondering if there's anything I need to be aware of such as the parking brake, ABS sensor, etc., or is it fairly straight forward. Thanks for any advice.

 

[JKmotorsports]

Here are steps for the rear pad change, assuming you have rear disc.

Pad removal procedure
Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support the caliper. Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
Remove the brake pad retainers from the brake caliper bracket.

Installation Procedure

Important: Use denatured alcohol to clean the outside surface of caliper boot before installing new brake pads.

Use a C-clamp in order to compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore. Use the old brake pad, a metal plate or a wooden block across the face of the piston in order to protect the piston and the caliper boot. Important: Use a small flat-bladed tool and lift the inner edge caliper boot next to the piston to release any trapped air.
Ensure that the piston boot is below the level of the piston face.

Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket. Important: Ensure that the wear sensor is positioned at the leading edge (upward) of the inner pad during forward wheel rotation.
Install the brake pads over the brake pad retainers and onto the caliper bracket.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance.
Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid.
Burnish the pads and the rotors.

 

[dbdolan]

I need to replace the rear brake pads on my 01 Tahoe, and not being particulary mechanically inclined (I have successfully replaced the front pads and rotors on my wife's Dodge Intrepid), I was wondering if there's anything I need to be aware of such as the parking brake, ABS sensor, etc., or is it fairly straight forward. Thanks for any advice.

I have changed the pads on my wife's 2002 Tahoe. The rear is straight forward but on the front you will need to get a torx t-55 socket to get the caliper free. I found this out after the fact and had to hitch a ride to the auto parts store.:Chevy:

 

[tahoeray830]

PROBLEM!!!

Everything went well with the drivers side, but when I compressed the top piston on the passengers side, the bottom piston boot swelled and leaked. For some reason (apparently thinking that it would fix itself), I went ahead and compressed the bottom piston, which continued to leak and the boot is definately out of whack. Now what? Do I have to replace that whole piston housing, which means bleeding the lines, etc, which is obviously not a good thing for me to be doing. Or can that piston boot be reset? Luckily, I have another vehicle, so I have some time to work on this whole new project.

JK, thanks for the previous info and for helping out a newbie idiot who's trying to learn how to do these things myself and save some $$! You see how that's working out for me...

 

[JKmotorsports]

Everything went well with the drivers side, but when I compressed the top piston on the passengers side, the bottom piston boot swelled and leaked. For some reason (apparently thinking that it would fix itself), I went ahead and compressed the bottom piston, which continued to leak and the boot is definately out of whack. Now what? Do I have to replace that whole piston housing, which means bleeding the lines, etc, which is obviously not a good thing for me to be doing. Or can that piston boot be reset? Luckily, I have another vehicle, so I have some time to work on this whole new project.

JK, thanks for the previous info and for helping out a newbie idiot who's trying to learn how to do these things myself and save some $$! You see how that's working out for me...

Did you compress the pistons one at a time? You should do both at the same time. As for the boot, you can try to put it back in place, but more than likely you might have to replace the boot/seal. Then you'll have to bleed it because fluid leaked out and air probably got sucked up into the caliper. Sorry about the bad news. Hopefully it's not as bad as it sounds. Good luck.

 

[tahoeray830]

Is there a good manual out there that will walk me through how to replace the boot/seal and bleed it, so I don't have to keep bothering you? I thought there would be a way to get the piston out but I can't figure it out, and I really want to follow through on fixing this and not taking it to a garage.

Thanks again.

 

[JKmotorsports]

Is there a good manual out there that will walk me through how to replace the boot/seal and bleed it, so I don't have to keep bothering you? I thought there would be a way to get the piston out but I can't figure it out, and I really want to follow through on fixing this and not taking it to a garage.

Thanks again.

A Chilton's manual might go into depth about rebuilding a caliper, which should tell you about the boot replacement. I'm not sure if a Haynes manual will or not. But these two manuals you can pick up at most auto parts stores without shelling out a lot of cash like you would for a manual by Mitchells or the like.
To remove the pistons, you should be able to use compressed air in the inlet hole (where the brake line connects) to push the piston(s) out. Then you can completely remove the seal and re-seat it and re-install the piston.

 

[Getwired]

Haynes seem pretty "high-level" for most tasks... I'd go with a Chilton's if you can find one and get a good deal on it.

 

[tahoeray830]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes.