I hope ya’ll are ready for another installment of the dreaded “Stabilitrakâ€
“Reduced power error†for a Chevy.
BACKGROUND: 2008 Chevy Tahoe 4WD LTZ 5.3 Flex w/ 100K. Had one
phantom electrical issue at 50k that caused random locks and lights on the
interior. This was resolved by the dealer under warranty with new positive
and negative cables.
Recently had oil change and tire rotation. Seafoamed the fuel and engine.
Drove approximately 200 miles when the vehicle went into low power and
flashed stabilitrak errors. Shut the vehicle down and tried restarting the
vehicle. After multiple attempts, the vehicle started once with a very rough
idle. Shut the vehicle down and have not been able to get it restarted. Had
vehicle towed.
All attempts to start vehicle result in a single “clunk†from the starter solenoid
at the starter. All lights, radio, air compressor, etc work. The only code my
OBD reader pulled was “Random Misfireâ€. This seems to be the reason it
went into low power, but doesn’t seem to explain why I can’t start the vehicle.
WHAT I’VE DONE: Charged battery (2-1/2 year old Optimum Red Top) Tried
to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Swapped out battery with my Dodge 1500 and a Ford F150 battery. Tried to
start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Check all grounds. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Checked all fuses and relays. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No
success
Replaced negative cable with factory new replacement. Tried to start, solid
“clunk†from starter – No success
Pulled starter. Had it tested with positive result. Broke terminal while
reinstalling. Purchased new starter ($150 mistake if you’re keeping track)
and reinstalled. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Jumped starter solenoid. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No
success
Replaced 175A mega fuse. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No
success
WHERE I’M AT: I have exhausted what I know to try. I have read about the
Neutral Safety Switch and Ignition Switch but feel like jumping the solenoid
would have isolated them out of the equation? I’m close to having it towed to
the dealer, but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas for what this could be.
Thanks
“Reduced power error†for a Chevy.
BACKGROUND: 2008 Chevy Tahoe 4WD LTZ 5.3 Flex w/ 100K. Had one
phantom electrical issue at 50k that caused random locks and lights on the
interior. This was resolved by the dealer under warranty with new positive
and negative cables.
Recently had oil change and tire rotation. Seafoamed the fuel and engine.
Drove approximately 200 miles when the vehicle went into low power and
flashed stabilitrak errors. Shut the vehicle down and tried restarting the
vehicle. After multiple attempts, the vehicle started once with a very rough
idle. Shut the vehicle down and have not been able to get it restarted. Had
vehicle towed.
All attempts to start vehicle result in a single “clunk†from the starter solenoid
at the starter. All lights, radio, air compressor, etc work. The only code my
OBD reader pulled was “Random Misfireâ€. This seems to be the reason it
went into low power, but doesn’t seem to explain why I can’t start the vehicle.
WHAT I’VE DONE: Charged battery (2-1/2 year old Optimum Red Top) Tried
to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Swapped out battery with my Dodge 1500 and a Ford F150 battery. Tried to
start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Check all grounds. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Checked all fuses and relays. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No
success
Replaced negative cable with factory new replacement. Tried to start, solid
“clunk†from starter – No success
Pulled starter. Had it tested with positive result. Broke terminal while
reinstalling. Purchased new starter ($150 mistake if you’re keeping track)
and reinstalled. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No success
Jumped starter solenoid. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No
success
Replaced 175A mega fuse. Tried to start, solid “clunk†from starter – No
success
WHERE I’M AT: I have exhausted what I know to try. I have read about the
Neutral Safety Switch and Ignition Switch but feel like jumping the solenoid
would have isolated them out of the equation? I’m close to having it towed to
the dealer, but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas for what this could be.
Thanks
