you people act as if this is a new drug or something its ****ing seafoam its an injector and crank cleaner ive used it came back nothing but great....i run a whole bottle in crank and fuel and never had a problem i even stick some acetone in it...allllll great results never had a problem car runs better better gas mileage...
It should be right infront of the steering wheel along the firewall. Its the brake booster I THINK and is about 9 inches in diameter and round in shape. You will see a couple hoses coming out of it, and one big one that is about 1/2 inch in diameter. Pry the clip off and feed the seafoam into the hose slowly while the car is running. SLOWLY!
i did it, the motor runs like **** IMMEDIATELY when u disconnect that vacuum line. so u gotta plug it with your thumb while letting it sip the seafoam in order not to stall the motor. once it has drank about half the can let it suck a big glug of seafoam and stall out. wait 5 minutes and then crank. the motor won't want to crank but just keep trying it will fire up eventually.
only thing i got out of it was lots of white smoke and some strange looks from my neighbors. kinda cool looking but didn't notice any changes in how the motor ran. it definitely didn't hurt anything tho. the people driving behind me couldn't see **** either. saw a couple cars actually pull off the road so they could see, LoL!
I never tried Seafoam.. but will definitely give it a shot. Thanks for the tips~
I have used Amsoil products though. They have a similar engine cleaner called PowerFoam. It's an aerosol can w/ a straw, and it's a tad easier to use than what I read here. Supposedly it foams up inside the intake to clean it. I tried it on my boat (carburated GM 4.3 V6) and I was amazed how well the foam cleaned as it when in. So far I've used the PowerFoam in a Lexus LS430, a Lexus LX470, an Audi A6 2.7T,(all w/ 100+ k miles) and my boat. I'll be giving Seafoam a try next time (it's easier to find).
As for cleaning the oil and sludge... Amsoil has a product called engine flush...
Basically when it's time for an oil change, I get a new filter (cheap one), and install it w/o draining the oilpan. Then pour in the Engine Flush, and fast idle the car for 15 min. (don't drive it!!). Then I procede to a normal oil change w/ a new oem factory filter and Mobile1 oil.
For the fuel, I used Amsoil PI (performance improver)... it supposedly cleans the fuel system and injectors... and even lowers smog levels (great for smog checks). I have friends and family members who swear by this stuff.
I'm not affiliated w/ Amsoil, but I work in the automotive industry, surrounded by car buffs... and I was sold on some Amsoil priducts by friends and co-workers and racers who love it... so I gave them a try. They were all good products... but not available everywhere. If I could get them easier, and if they were a tad cheaper, I'd keep using them.
btw.. their Syntheic ATF was awsome... I used it in my '03 Honda Accord which requires Honda Z-1 and a Lexus LS430... and the results were very noticeable... much smoother shifts, trannies felt new... and they can handle higher temps too. I'm planning to use the Amsoil synth ATF when I do my Transgo Kit.
and no... I really am not affiliated w/ Amsoil! lol~
Just a couple of quick tips so you can easily do this job single handed...
Use a funnel in the end of the brake booster line with a small hex head bolt that drops loosely into the tip of the funnel. A 1/4" bolt fit my funnel perfectly with very small gaps at the bolt head flats. That resticts the flow into the vac line so the engine won't stall from too much air or seafoam sucked in. Then you can slowly pour the seafoam into the funnel without stalling. At the end just pour a bunch into the funnel and giggle it a bit. This moves the bolt head allowing the seafoam to get sucked in faster and stall the engine. To do it single handed stand by the drivers fender and hold the funnel in one hand and the seafoam bottle in the other hand along with long stick under the seafoam bottle. Use the long stick to gently push sideways on the throttle cable to control the engine RPM.
After 2/3 a bottle of seafoam, stalling it out at the end, and letting it sit for a couple of hours while I did another job, my Tahoe blew a cloud of smoke the size of my house on startup. Then after after a couple of minutes, thinking in had calmed down, I took it for a cleanout drive. Holy Cow! It looked like a solid cotton ball stream coming out of the tail pile for the first 2-3 miles. I really couldn't see anything behind me! Then it continued to smoke steadily for another 10 miles. I was lauging the whole way, but I did feel a little bad for anyone that got behind me.
An intake cleanout had never been done in the first 217K miles, so it was way past due. Runs better now thank it has for years, probably as good as it did for the first 50-60K miles.
I went on to seam foam web site and found some pretty informational stuff there. You can put the stuff in the crank case at a recommended rate of 1.5 OZ per QT of oil and in your gas tank at a recommended rate of 1 OZ per GAL of gas. I bought my burb used and not sure how well it was taken care of before me but shouldn't hurt to use the product. The only concern I have been told and have also read others stating is to not pour into vacuum line to quickly. The only explanation I can give to this is that this product, even though petroleum based, will ignite much hotter and can cause a cracked cylinder head if you pour it in too quickly. I have used the product before on a chevy lumina and worked wonderful.
I am planning on adding to my burb oil and gas tonight as well as to the vacuum line. I will update on the engine knock if the problem goes away. Sea foam web site makes no claims to solving mechanical issues but if the knock is due to a sticking lifter or issues with gumming of hydraulic lifters than it may help. In addition, I am going to put in crankcase with somewhat new oil (less than 500 miles) and run it for about 500 more miles while checking the clarity of the oil on the dipstick. If it looks like it is working well, i.e. oil getting dirty quick, then I will abort plan and change oil. I am going to use the sea foam in the oil at every oil change for three or four times in a row until I notice that the oil is not getting dirty as quickly and then reassess the plan. I suspect my motor is really gummed up as the last time I drained the oil, I ran it for a few minutes as it was cold out, and then pulled the drain plug. The oil seemed a little stringy and didn't shoot out like usual. Seemed more thick and gooey? If that can be said of oil. It just didn't seem right.
So, as promised, here is the update on SEA FOAM use.
Ran it in the crank case with new oil for around 250 miles. I would say the knock noise went away for the first 100 miles about and then returned. Performance of the engine was not effected although I could tell that the oil was a little thinner by the slightly quicker throttle response. I was surprised to see when I changed the oil yesterday that the oil was not all black and "gunky" like I expected. Rather it was slightly black to the eye but when wiped on white rag only medium darkness but still looked like good oil. I may do this another time, I will see. I already have a couple of gasket leaks and am worried about those worsening if I clean the engine to aggressively. As mentioned in another post, if an engine has not been taken care of and allowed to get "gunked up" for long time, aggressive cleaning of the engine has been known to cause leaking gaskets as well as a notable decrease to the compression of the engine.
So, the question of does sea foam help with engine knock for 5.3L V8. Not really. Not when the lifter is already pretty gummed up. I am going to try a motor flush prior to an oil change along with spraying some carb cleaner into the lifter (some disassembly of valve cover and lifter required).
I think running a can of sea foam in the gas every so often is a good thing. From line corrosion to moisture in tank to combustion chamber varnish the product through faithful use should work. I was told once to use it when a long trip is planned as the engine temperature being hot for long periods of time during operation with the additive in the gasoline is best. Use as directed by MFR.
So I just got it done today, but my '02 Tahoe with 186k miles didn't get nearly as much smoke as what you see on the YouTube videos. I was told the guy who owned it before me took very good care of it so I don't know if it's because of that or because I didn't pour a whole lot down the brake booster hose, due to me being nervous over hydro-locking the engine. Any suggestions?