Recent content by InTruckDesign

Definetly give Tim a call...he know McGaughy's inside and out...it really is a straight forward install...I cannot imagine why you are still smelling rubber from the tires if you had an alignment and it was done to their specs....Also the clunking you may hear could be that upper ball joint not...

They will help to an extent...of course the heavier the load the more the sag...if you have self-leveling rear suspension then your set if not you may want to consider a 1.5" spacer out back if you do a 2.5" up front. Mine sits with the rear about 1" higher than the front with my 2-place...

That is the reason I added the 1" rear spring spacer...depending on the trailer weight its going to sag...the only way to prevent that would be a set of airbags.

I have the 2.5" front and 1" rear set-up on my tahoe and tow all the time...40k miles and no issues...tows fine the only performance impact would be from larger tires...I run 305/55-20's on mine and really do not notice them...but I do have air intake/exhaust/programming done to it.

Mine was doing it and ended up being the cam positioning sensor...may want to have your dealer check it out.

you can use a sawzall, air saw, cut-off wheel etc. The bolt they want you to cut off is the balljoint stud...you need to be at the point in the install where the uca is re-installed and tightened..then before you install the cv axle you cut the stud shorter.

The rear box doesn't "piss off " the rear sensor...just disables it while its there..no big deal to me...the damn sensor gets tripped when I have a reciever hitch in.

I went a different route and used the Stow Away brand rear carrier...main reason was I didn't want to climb a ladder everytime I needed to load or unload it...plus it holds a ton of luggage or whateveryou want to put in it...I've lined it and picked up a bunch of lobsters...also used it as a...

I removed mine a couple years ago and used a body side molding from a Autobody paint shop to cover all the holes..actually just looks like another rib in the roof. As far as the Police package Tahoes all the ones up here in the Northeast have no holes at all smooth as can be...why can't GM just...

Tire sizes you are looking for have a 70 aspect ratio not a 75...so look for a 265/70-17 or 285/70-17...a taller tire that is similar in width to the factory tire will change you mileage minimally...if you go wider you will suffer more loss.

If you removed the CV from the factory spindle then you did the hard part...now just take the 6 bolts out of the other end ..they hold the flanged end onto the front diff. Really is not a hard install...and sounds like you can turn a wrench so give it another shot...but definetly have an...

CV axle must be totally removed before reattaching the upper control arm(uca) to the new spindle, then once installed the excess threads from the ball joint stud must be cut off to provide the clearance needed to clear the cv boot.

ad this problem and I know of a couple of others as well...it is coming from the boot where the wires run from the truck to the hatch...it is up by the headliner...I just took some silicone and sealed the boot, it is a poor design by GM...some leak some don't...water gets in and runs down the D...

Yup you'll be kicking yourself after the first storm. Usually just run mine in auto on the snow/ice covered roads..if I travel the backcountry roads and know I will be on them for awhile I'll switch to 4-Hi.

Mine leaks from the exact same spot...I ran it for a few months with the interior trim panels removed so I could trace it. The water is entering around the rubber grommet where all the electrical wiring runs from the truck body to the hatch...on the truck side. It is just a really poor grommet...