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Bringing this thread back hahaha. I have been experiencing some cold start noise also. Ive been looking at service bulletins and there a bulletin about the noise caused from carbon build up on the pistons. When you sea foam with the booster line to engine that should solve that issue. However...

What year is the Tahoe?? If its 01 and newer you don't need to set it.

hmm, sorry the simplest things get past me sometimes. Sounds like that would be correct, and did they change the filter too?

Didn't know about it till you posted it. pretty cool, but I probably wouldn't spend any money on something like that.

Wut up. Im going to Hawaii in july, any advise on places to go? I have some family in ewa beach and my dad bought a house in Waianae so we are going to check it out.

Its kind of normal for these engines. mine makes the noise only on cold mornings at cold start but only for few seconds and goes away. When its warm in the morning now that its summer, noise doesn't happen.

Tahoes are notorious for the cold start knock, but will always go away after warm up unless there is internal damage due to low lubrication. For your leak you need to pressurize the system and if you get it on a lift it would be easier to spot. Then from there it will be easier to pinpoint your...

You are in the right direction, check the air filter and if you clean the MAF and fixes it then replace the MAF. Cleaning the MAF is only a temporary fix. Also you should monitor your fuel trims to make sure the truck isn't running lean to cause your issue.

Clear the codes and monitor with a scanner. take for a quick spin and recheck codes to see which ones come back right away. Then you have a direction to start testing and diagnosing.

evap codes wouldn't make the truck stall, but MAF and CKP sensors will make it stall without codes. I would start with making sure everything was hooked up accordingly and check all fluids. Replace crank sensor and make sure you take it to a shop to do the crank sensor calibration. Sensor should...

welcome and that's not fair. I can get my daughter to work on the rides with me but the wife? that's a different story lol. I dig it:cool:

I would think so

IMO dealers are not so much as a rip off I just think they are expensive for what they charge. earlier post says he paid $1k for fuel pump? wow my shop charges about $650 for that. and im in California... My shops normal rate is $98 and most dealers in my area in san diego are about $110- $120...

and you might need to bleed the system. you have some hard lines that go to the BCM. but these trucks are notorious for the connector to come loose. I would check that first.

yup

Glad you figured it out but the best way would be to have a scanner with bi-directional controls and a smoke machine. that way your not just throwing parts at it. no sense in replacing parts that are not broken......

lol for real? :cool:

seen this before on neumerous vehicles. but hope that the problem is fixed by the way... But the most common thing with what your describing would be an abs sensor, wheel speed sensor. Does it have a predominant side that the noise comes from. LF or RF? that would help narrow it down or if you...

I would find a dye that would be ok to use with fuel and put that in the tank. Use a Uv light to spot it.

Dang. Is the shop going to be open? I'm headed to corona to pick some stuff up and wanted to stop by on the way back.....