07 tahoe procharger

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Sotorin

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Of course I'll have pictures posted ASAP. I'm picking the car up today (Friday) afternoon and I'll have pictures posted tomorrow. It's a ****ty day in Chicago today, dark and rainy and no way I could take pictures w/out a flash.
Anyway, is there anything in particular that you guys would like to see in these pictures? Just Procharger installed or something else? Let me know.
 

tbully

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Of course I'll have pictures posted ASAP. I'm picking the car up today (Friday) afternoon and I'll have pictures posted tomorrow. It's a ****ty day in Chicago today, dark and rainy and no way I could take pictures w/out a flash.
Anyway, is there anything in particular that you guys would like to see in these pictures? Just Procharger installed or something else? Let me know.

A picture of you in the truck from about 20 feet while you're burning the tires off!!!! :smilielol: :au:

Kidding.

Looking forward to the pics and feedback.........
 

Sotorin

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After dropping 7+K on this mod I'm not sure I'll want to expose myself to additional expense of buying new tires every month. However, who knows, I may like this blower so much that I'll floor it every chance I get just for the fun of it.
They told me they put the car on a dyno, (apparetnly it now pumps 400+HP with the charger) and then took it for a spin. "We have never seen a Tahoe move that fast" is what they told me after the ride was over. But again, I haven't seen or driven my car yet so these are not my impressions.
BTW - how do people burn rubber in cars (automatics) like Tahoe? You can't step on a brake and gas pedal at the same time, now can you? How do they keep the front wheels locked?
 

aaron72

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Just mash the gas. If you've got enough power you will barely move forward without applying any brake. When you're ready to go, just let off the gas some and the tires will hook up and you'll be off.

If you want another expensive project, you could always try a neutral drop. I'm kidding, stay away from that.
 

Sotorin

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I want to see that dyno sheet.

Absolutelty. They said they already have it ready for me. It will be scanned and posted.

Just mash the gas. If you've got enough power you will barely move forward without applying any brake. When you're ready to go, just let off the gas some and the tires will hook up and you'll be off.

I didn't think it would be that easy but it does make sense. Someone once told me that they pour bleach under the tires. Could that be right?
 

Ed Blown Vert

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When racing, some people use line-locks to hold the front tires.
My Camaro is an A4 so I just slightly apply the brakes and give it enough gas to break loose the tires (in the burnout box). Then back off the accelerator and keep them spinning.

But I have enough power on the street, so I don't have to apply the brakes.
 
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Ed Blown Vert

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Here is a preview of your Blower Whine.

Procharger D1

Its priceless pulling up to a light next to a Mustang and all they hear is Blower Whine. And they know they are going to get spanked. :)
 

73shark

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I believe that the bleach was a poor man's substitute for VHT tire spray or some other chemical that tends to soften the tread rubber.
 

Sotorin

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You asked for it and here it is - the dyno sheet. Tomorrow I'll attach pictures of the Procharger installed in my Tahoe.

Now, for some initial impressions. There is a little bit of lag between the moment I step on a gas pedal and when the boost kicks in. Not a lot but you can notice that. However, once the boost is acquired it might be difficult to maintain the car going straight as there is a lot of power applied to the wheels. It's not a rocket but it does accelerate from 25 to 70 in an instance. So on my way home (from the shop) I floored it twice and just as many times I almost lost contol of the vehicle. Yes, the roads where slippery (just rained) and winding but so what. I have stock suspension and regular 17 in. tires - whatever came with the car.

Procharger's whine just begs you to use it but after finding myself going 60 in a 25 zone (residential zone around where I live) I think I'll wait until I get on a highway next time I punch it.

Friend of mine whos car I was using while mine was in a shop drove me today to pick it up. After that I was filling his car (and mine) with gas and he looked under my hood and asked me
- "Exactly what did they do to your car?"
- "Ohh, it's just an air pump that's it" - I downplayed the whole story
- "And what does it do?"
- "It makes your car drive faster"
- "How much did it cost"
- "About 2400" - I lied as this was just the labor

I'll post some pictures tomorrow and share more thoughts.

scan0002_resize.jpg
 
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Ed Blown Vert

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The lag was expected. With a stock torque conveter, it won't slip enough to get you into your powerband sooner.

I was hoping the sheet would show AFR and maybe boost.

439 rwhp is pretty good. I am guessing stock would be around 280?

Too bad they didn't show the torque. Were they able to lock the converter??
 

Sotorin

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The lag was expected. With a stock torque conveter, it won't slip enough to get you into your powerband sooner.

It's not that big of a deal but it would be nice if it actually did get into my powerband sooner. Maybe there are some after market patrs, which can be installed. However, even if so then probably this would not be my next "investment"

I was hoping the sheet would show AFR and maybe boost.

I remember you were telling me to get AFR measurement, I asked him about it and what he said was they were doing their tuning with a computer attached to the engine and if I wanted to get the AFR then they could do it by attatching measuring device to the tail pipe, which he said would not be really accurate. The proper way would be to attach it to where exhaust leave the engine but that they didn't do or didn't have the necessary parts/devices to take such measurements. Maybe I'm not explaining it very well but if you know how AFR measurements are taken then this will probably make sense to you or at least you can extrapolate and 'fill-in' the blanks in my explanation.
The boost is 9PSI.

439 rwhp is pretty good. I am guessing stock would be around 280?
Yes, the HP is pretty good. I have a 5.3L stock engine, which by itself produces some 310HP? You know that's what owner's manual says but stock RWHP was probably more along what you were saying - 280.

Too bad they didn't show the torque. Were they able to lock the converter??
Torque is the lower line in dyno sheet. Top one is HP, lower is torque. I didn't as them about the locked converter? Is it the torque converter you are talking about? I can call him and ask.
 

treepete

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Man, i just got here and read this whole thread. What an awesome mod for your truck.

If in my travels, I see a blurry thing pass me, Ill know it was you.
 

JennaBear

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Get that bad boy on load bearing dyno and post up the sheets!! Remember, you want your HP and Torque to meet at 5252.

DynoJets calculate torque based on acceleration of a 3000lb drum and then apply a proprietary inflation factor to account for drivetrain losses. This factor is right in the neighborhood of 20%. Hence the reason a Dynojet will ALWAYS read significantly higher than any dyno that measures torque by applying a load rather than calculates it based on acceleration.

Check this for more details: http://www.factorypro.com/magazine/dynojet_dyno_inflated_hp_reason.html
 
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Ed Blown Vert

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It's not that big of a deal but it would be nice if it actually did get into my powerband sooner. Maybe there are some after market patrs, which can be installed. However, even if so then probably this would not be my next "investment"

Thats the difference between the centrifugal blower and the roots style. A torque converter would solve the lag. But city mileage would drop significantly. Plus I don't know it TC's are good for towing.


I remember you were telling me to get AFR measurement, I asked him about it and what he said was they were doing their tuning with a computer attached to the engine and if I wanted to get the AFR then they could do it by attatching measuring device to the tail pipe, which he said would not be really accurate. The proper way would be to attach it to where exhaust leave the engine but that they didn't do or didn't have the necessary parts/devices to take such measurements. Maybe I'm not explaining it very well but if you know how AFR measurements are taken then this will probably make sense to you or at least you can extrapolate and 'fill-in' the blanks in my explanation.
The boost is 9PSI.

Yes it makes sense. They are correct, taking the AF reading is more accurate before the catalytic converters. But they could have put the sensor in the tailpipe. The difference is about .5

Now I would be worried about you running lean and ruining your engine. They can't tune for a blower properly without AF. My guess is the only thing they tuned for was the larger injectors.

Yes, the HP is pretty good. I have a 5.3L stock engine, which by itself produces some 310HP? You know that's what owner's manual says but stock RWHP was probably more along what you were saying - 280.


Torque is the lower line in dyno sheet. Top one is HP, lower is torque. I didn't as them about the locked converter? Is it the torque converter you are talking about? I can call him and ask.

That doesn't really look like a torque line. But they were using a Mustang Dyno (I prefer Dyno Jets) I am used to seeing the numbers differently.

So I bet you will be burning through a tank in a matter of days. :)
 

Sotorin

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Thats the difference between the centrifugal blower and the roots style. A torque converter would solve the lag. But city mileage would drop significantly. Plus I don't know it TC's are good for towing.

After I got educated about differences between centrifugal, roots and twin screw it was aleady too late as the money was already spent. I think that twin screw Kenne Bell or Whipple was really what I wanted. There is a lot to chose from if you drive models up to 06 (I have 07) and Procharger was pretty much the only choice available for my car. In a year or two I'm sure there is going to be more to chose from but by then I could have changed my mind, sold the car or die - who knows haha. I'm not going to be installing any torque converters now. I want the Procharger to grow on me a little plus gas is still expensive, I'm sure I'll have enough additional expenses with this mod.

Now I would be worried about you running lean and ruining your engine. They can't tune for a blower properly without AF. My guess is the only thing they tuned for was the larger injectors.

I'm trying to think positive and imagine that I dealt with professionals and they knew what they were doing while tuning my car using their expertise. I was told that my tune is conservative yet aggressive where it needs to be. I have follow up visit scheduled with them in about a month.
 

Ed Blown Vert

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I don't know how they would know if it was conservative or not, without seeing the AF. My guess is they pulled the timing back alot. Which would reduce power.

Good Luck!
 

smoothfrc

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As you are learning/ have learned, the procharger has it's up's and down's.. the HUGE down being the lack of power on the bottom end.

As others have mentioned, the best way to really get the "off the line" performance would be to put in a stall... Which from the impression i get from this thread, is not really something you should probabily get. It really is for a "performance" vehicle vs an daily driver truck. JMHO...

I mentioned this in a different thread, but ECS (east coast supercharging) has really nailed the procharger/novi systems down. One thing they do which really helps with low end performance, is to use a restrictor plate.

Basically you would have to put a smaller pulley on the procharger and make the charger build more boost on the lower end. The restrictor plate will basically limit the amount of air that is fed to the blower, hence limiting the total amount of boost built for the top end. You can play with the size of the plates to change the amount of boost allowed. This would wake up the truck on the bottom end, but you still wouldnt get the launch of a roots blower.

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.com/

You could give them a quick call and ask them about the restrictor plate, as even thought they are using a different head unit, the plate should be universal.

The tune is everything, just make sure they are actually tuning it vs. using the "procharger" general tune.
 
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