Fan Speed

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paaymans

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I have a 1997 Tahoe 5.8 4x4 whe you rotate the fan to max the fan is blowing air at the minimum setting. Anything below max you can hardly feel air moving.

Can any body explain where the resistor pack is? and how to replace.
 
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NOKUY

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I have a 1997 Tahoe 5.8 4x4 whe you rotate the fan to max the fan is blowing air at the minimum setting. Anything below max you can hardly feel air moving.
Probably your resistor. Had the same issue in my '97. Replaced the in-dash control unit to no avail then replaced the resistor which solved the issue. Sold the spare control unit on eBay once all was up and running. Good luck.
 

96cherry

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if that doesnt work autozone sells a blower control switch i just bought one yesterday and it solved my problem only 20$
 

96cherry

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im kinda having the same problem except when i turn it to high it shuts off any ideas?
 

Paul Greathouse

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When I put mine on high it will blow hard for a while and then back off for a while. It will keep cycling like that if left on high so I normally turn it down to the next lower level after the interior cools off and the cycling stops.

I have a 95 Tahoe, if its the resistor where is it located, that's one part I haven't heard of yet.
 

sislane

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Looks like a million threads on here for climate fan motors that work partially or not at all. I've been reading about this for over a year & always see bits & pieces of advice, and never the whole story.

After my blower motor stopped working, and having no idea where to start, I replaced the 4 position switch ($25) and the resistor plate ($25). It worked for a few weeks, while I started losing speed positions again, then I was back to nothing. I replaced the blower motor ($28), started working again, then it completely died....

What I learned: REPLACE THE MOTOR FIRST!, along with the resistor plate, 4 position switch ***AND*** the plastic connector that plugs into the switch. Over time, your motor windings start shortng out, causing a heaver current draw, which ends-up pulling more ampergae through the switch, connector, wires and resistor plate - destroying all of it. The switch and connector both MELT from over-heating. I'm convinced this is why any problems occur on any of these.

All the parts are inexpensive, it's just a matter of doing it right. When you've only replaced the switch and/or the resistor plate AND NOT THE MOTOR, your motor can start working again, BUT you still have a motor that's on it's way out. Then you kill the new switch and possibly reistor plate, along w/ the plastic connector on that connects to the switch. (another $63)

I just went to NAPA to get another switch, and also the plastic connector. The wire connector is $63! (a $15 part at best) Knowing this is a weak link to begin with (becomes a gateway for poor conductivity) I realized the wires should be SOLDERED to the switch for best results. Just got through doing it, works perfectly. Solder your own set of wires to the connectors, then fill w/ hot melt. Now it's better than stock.
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Dianne Skinner

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Give up now..... This can be a hazzard! Go to eBay and pony up for a Heater / A/C control block. before it turns everything crispy, it is a 5 minute install from sitting position in the the passenger seat!
Good Luck
 
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