Got my auto start :D
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JKmotorsports
tahoeyukonforum.com
External antenna. Range should be well over 15ft. All you need to disassemble is the kneebolster panel. Most, if not all, your connections will be made at the ignition harness and bcm. You'll also need a GM passkey override module, and if your truck is an 03+ model, you'll also need an interface for the central lock system (unless you are comfortable disassembling the DDM and soldering directly to the pcb to interface directly with the locks).
Directed's 1700G module and Xpress Kit's XK01 will take care of both the immobilizer bypass and door lock interface.
Directed's 1700G module and Xpress Kit's XK01 will take care of both the immobilizer bypass and door lock interface.
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:ack:
let me ask a few more questions here...
1st - Where is this "GM passkey override module" and how much does it cost?
2nd - yes, I am rocking the 04... so looks like i will need an interface for the central lock system... where can i find this and how much does it cost
2nd(B) - soldering is not a problem, i have the tools for this, however i am 100% unfamiliar with the DDM and pcb, therefore I am not sure i want to be in there fvcking around.
unfortunatly, the "installation sheet" that the dude sent with the auto start wasnt an instal sheet at all, mearly a guide to what each color wire is for on the unit, that is obviously only HALF of the equasion.
JKmotorsports
tahoeyukonforum.com
Directed's 1700G module and Xpress Kit's XK01 will take care of both the immobilizer bypass and door lock interface.
I'm going to send you some wiring info via email.
replied to the email, let me know if you dont get it...
I am gonna search ebay and what not for the 1700G module and Xpress Kit... about how much should i be paying for this?
JKmotorsports
tahoeyukonforum.com
I sent the info to you in your email.
You should be able to find the 1700G for under $50. The XK01 module goes anywhere from $60-$100. The 1700G is cheaper, but the XK01 may be easier for you to help integrate the remote start system.
is this it???
this thing looks like a plug and play deal... what am I plugging into this things?
http://cgi.ebay.com/XPRESSKIT-XK01-...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
another thing JK... in your honest opinion... would you recomend me (having no A/V experiance at all) to do this myself... how bad can i fvck this up? I am going to go buy some t-clamps today
this thing looks like a plug and play deal... what am I plugging into this things?
http://cgi.ebay.com/XPRESSKIT-XK01-...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
another thing JK... in your honest opinion... would you recomend me (having no A/V experiance at all) to do this myself... how bad can i fvck this up? I am going to go buy some t-clamps today
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JKmotorsports
tahoeyukonforum.com
The module will come with its own harness. Some of the wires from the remote start system will go into the XK01 module, and the purple wire from the module will splice into the databus wire in the DLC harness. This is what will command the all the various modules (bcm,ddm,etc) what to do.
If you've never done anything like this before, TAKE YOUR TIME AND VERIFY AT LEAST TWICE that you have located all the proper wires. DO NOT use a test light. Use a digital multi-meter instead. Test lights/bulbs draw too much current and can burn out the circuit you're testing and fry a module. T-taps are one of the worst connectors you can use in an automobile. Convenient, but very unreliable mechanically and electrically. With the low voltage signal on the databus wire and the high current required to and from the ignition harness, you'll need to solder so that there is no resistance between the splices. This is especially important with the databus wire, or your module may not communicate properly with the rest of the vehicle's computers.
If you've never done anything like this before, TAKE YOUR TIME AND VERIFY AT LEAST TWICE that you have located all the proper wires. DO NOT use a test light. Use a digital multi-meter instead. Test lights/bulbs draw too much current and can burn out the circuit you're testing and fry a module. T-taps are one of the worst connectors you can use in an automobile. Convenient, but very unreliable mechanically and electrically. With the low voltage signal on the databus wire and the high current required to and from the ignition harness, you'll need to solder so that there is no resistance between the splices. This is especially important with the databus wire, or your module may not communicate properly with the rest of the vehicle's computers.
interesting, i was told t-taps were the only way to go... but than again my source is a little iffy! lol
JK, your gonna kill me before this thread is over!
Let me verify here, you want me to solder all the wire connections, 100% (not a huge problem here, i have done a lot of soldering just never on my vehicle) the only reason i ask is because my other option is to pay a buddy who does this type of thing at a local audio shop to do this for me but he wont be doing ANY soldering what so ever.
this is kinda why i want to do it myself (i know it will get done by my standards), but i want to make sure i am educated enough to get er done.
now, after peaking around i found this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/XK01-XL2230-2-w...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50
is this going to be everything i need? and if so, im sure i will have more questions regarding the two way.
JK, your gonna kill me before this thread is over!
Let me verify here, you want me to solder all the wire connections, 100% (not a huge problem here, i have done a lot of soldering just never on my vehicle) the only reason i ask is because my other option is to pay a buddy who does this type of thing at a local audio shop to do this for me but he wont be doing ANY soldering what so ever.
this is kinda why i want to do it myself (i know it will get done by my standards), but i want to make sure i am educated enough to get er done.
now, after peaking around i found this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/XK01-XL2230-2-w...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50
is this going to be everything i need? and if so, im sure i will have more questions regarding the two way.
JKmotorsports
tahoeyukonforum.com
When properly soldered, there's no electrical loss like there is with t-taps. And in a circuit that depends solely on voltage variations to send and receive data (CAN, LAN, Class II, etc databus systems), soldering is the only way to go. Plus, being in a constant vibration enviroment (i.e. a vehicle) t-taps can work themselves loose over time.
I think the two-way system in the link will only command whatever factory options are on the vehicle (factory remote start, lock/unlock, windows, etc.) Not sure that the two-way portion will do anything for the pre 07 models besides lock/unlock and door pin status. All you need is the XK01.
I think the two-way system in the link will only command whatever factory options are on the vehicle (factory remote start, lock/unlock, windows, etc.) Not sure that the two-way portion will do anything for the pre 07 models besides lock/unlock and door pin status. All you need is the XK01.
sh!t... i was really hopping the two way would work with this setup... my buddy installed an autostart/two way on his civic and its pretty trick, the keyfab lets you know what the car has been started! nice little feature.
One last question (for now
) is the XK01 going to come with its own wire harness?
JKmotorsports
tahoeyukonforum.com
The XK01 will have its own harness that will need to be connected to some of the wires from the remote start and also to the data wire in the truck's dlc harness.
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