New Engine Choices

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BigRob

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I have a 1995 GMC Yukon Z71 with about 200k on the clock. Because of some leaking issues and a desire for more power, I would like to drop in another engine set-up. What are my choices in doing this? I would like to go fuel injection versus carborated. Can I integrate in a GM Performace ZZ4 or a Ram Jet 350/502, or am I limited to a stock engine replacement. While I have some decent mechanical skills, I do not think I want to get into a bunch of rewiring.

Any help that y'all could provide would be very appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob
 

95TwinTT

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You should google, "GM Crate Engines". You will find a wide variety of engines to choose from.

Since the 95 has the OBD-1 ECM, the only sensible thing to do is to use an separate ECM for the engine. OBD-1 is a nightmare to try to alter.

At 200K, your trans is probably not ready to take on extra horsepower. If it were me, I would swap engines and go to a 4L80e trans at the same time. It is an easy swap and that will eliminate any problems with the trans having to deal with added power.

The ECM's offered are engine specific and require hooking up the supplied wiring harness. Not a big deal, with the instructions that come with them.

You can keep the existing trans setup, although it would be wise to have it rebuilt while it is apart. I left the OEM ECM in mine for a while, to control the transmission, while using an separate computer for the engine. Just keep track of the wires you "unhook" from the stock ECM to make sure you leave enough info to control the trans.

If I were going for a crate engine, I would do the big block for sure. In fact, I have been thinking about swapping the sbc with the hair driers for a big block, just to see what it would be like. lol
 

sasquatch094

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hey twintt, where did you get your 383 from??? do you build it all up yourself or have a machine shop do it, im thinking about keeping my 95 till i die and i want to in a couple years eather put a supercharger or turbo on it, but the 350 just dont do enough justice. im kinda in the pickle that Bigrob has in having the 95 version. what would i need (estimate nothing too in depth) in swapping in a bigger motor and stuff. i dont need a trans break like yours or anything too crazy. just some more balls
 

95TwinTT

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The 383 is the original engine worked over. I have a place called Total Engine, that does my engines for me.

They took the original engine and bored, stroked and did the 4 bolt mains. They also converted to roller cam and added the forged crank and rods. We also added Air Flow Research heads and a Holley intake manifold with 8 injectors to take the place of the throttle body injector.

The first time around, I had a Vortech Supercharger on it in addition to Nitrous with 200 and 400 hp pills. It was pretty exciting. I quickly decided that Nitrous was too dangerous. It’s kind of like getting rear ended, when it comes on, but the limitations were frustrating. It’s never turned on when you need it, then you have to worry about how much nitrous is left in the bottle and if the bottle is the correct temperature. Then there is the chasing around trying to get the bottles filled. I also had some damage to the engine from the nitrous mishaps.

I decided I wanted to have a ton of power and not have to screw around with all the nitrous stick, so that is how the hair driers came about.

I have not finished turning these turbos up all the way yet. I am working on that now. First I had to make sure the trans would take another 300 HP from the 575 RWHP, where I’m at now. That required the 4L80e to solve that problem. I’m just sitting at 12 pounds of boost right now. I will be adding a electronic control on the waste gates to alter the boost. I’m planning on taking it up to just 20 pounds. They generally figure 50 HP per pound, so that should help with passing on two lane roads while pulling the Camaro on the trailer.

Cost wise, the superchargers are going to be the best buy for power. They are easy to install and you can take the power up in stages. I started out on a stock engine. That was an incredible jump from a stock 95. It required no changes to the computer, it had it’s own control for the added injectors that came with the kit.

Back to the subject. I drifted a bit.

If you want to get a noticeable change in horsepower, I would do a Supercharger kit. I’m partial to the Vortech, but there are many brands, out there.

That would jump you 100 to 140 in horsepower over a weekend. It can be strapped directly on your stock engine. You will be speeding up the clock for the eventual overhaul, but it is a very enjoyable way to go.

After the rebuild, you can still use the Vortech, but you can step it up to a higher pressure once you redo the engine for 8.5 to 1 compression. It is just a matter of changing pulleys.

As you remember from “Reciprocating Engine’s 101â€, the amount of horsepower is directly related to the volume of air brought into the combustion chamber. Just remember, if it is not Blown, it Sucks.

Sucking can never exceed the actual volume of the engine, where as Blowing, can force added air into the chamber. Let’s say you had a 350 cubic inch engine and you forced air into it at 15 psi. It would be the equivalent of a 700 cubic inch engine.

So what you need is a second job to start building up the Tahoe savings account. I don’t regret the butt load of money have spoon fed this Tahoe of mine. It is a heck of a lot more fun than a new “stock†Tahoe. I figure I would have spent the same amount if I had continued to buy a new truck every three years. Sorry about wasting so much ink. :lol:


P.S. I added a couple of amusing pictures for fun. Check out what nitrous can do to a piston. It actually burnt that piece away. It did not break off. Notice no marks from being chewed. Just say NO to Nitrous..........
 

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sasquatch094

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i heard stroker motors are not very reliable? can u prove this or not. i hear the shorter rods and such make a wear inside each cylinder causing then a rebuild after many years?? how much then did u cost you about for your 383 upgrade. thanks
 

96ProCompTahoe

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im looking to put a 383 in my 96 hopefully in the next year or so. so any info you have on swapping it is appreciated as well. i hear there is a direct bolt in 383 that uses the stock intake? but i haven't gotten around to looking for it.

cheaper to have a shop build it up or buy the GM block thats already done?
 

GMCYukalade

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That would be the HT383e - i've looked at it.. it has a pretty price.. lol
 

95TwinTT

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i heard stroker motors are not very reliable? can u prove this or not. i hear the shorter rods and such make a wear inside each cylinder causing then a rebuild after many years?? how much then did u cost you about for your 383 upgrade. thanks

You are a funny guy. Where do you hear such things? The 383's are one of the most reliable versions of the sbc out there. If there is some kind of wear difference between them, you would most likely be 85 years old, before you noticed.

As far as the cost goes, the 383 in my Hoe, was close to $8,000.00. That of course is not just the machine shop costs, but also for the AFR heads, and other items that were above average. Like roller rockers and high flow oil pump, etc. Then the intake manifold, air doors, injectors and computer were another $6,500.00. Then the Turbo's were another $7,500.00. Then we get into the accessories. The Vintage Air front runner with new alternator and miniture air conditioning pump and power steering pump, was another $2,500.00. Then we had to go to hydraulic power brakes, since a vacumm booster brake system does not work well on a forced induction engine. The list goes on. I stopped adding it up a long time ago.

Then if you are successful in getting the power you wanted from the engine, the drive line may not take it. These cars and trucks are not an investment. They are a total waste of money from a accounting point of view. I am lucky in that my gal also enjoys the hot rodding. We do it as a hobby. She is OK with the spending.

I don't build up my vehicles to be "normal". I am not trying to save money. If you want dependable, reliable power that is always there when you want it, get out the old check book and do it.

There are a lot of ways to do engine rebuilding very cheaply. Mostly by doing a lot of the labor yourself. That also requires a lot of specialty tools.

Crate engines can be the perfect answer for the average guy. Especially since GM has made them so easy to acquire. Good luck... :cool:
 

BigRob

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I know it shows that the HT 383e to be a direct replacement in the 1996 to 1999 Tahoe/Yukon. What would I need to do to make it work in a 1995?

Thanks,

Rob
 

GMCYukalade

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BigRob.. you could do a pcm swap wiring harness swap.. that would be cool - but they also specifically make a 383 for your year model as well if im not mistaken.. - just need to pull your tbi and intake off and put it on
 

General Stalin

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You can also convert your stock 350 to a 383 for less money than buying a new 383. Take the bare block to a engine machine shop, have them bore it and stroke it to a 383, and buy a 400 sbc crank, new connecting rods, etc. You could just get the machine work done and buy a "Stroker Kit." They make specific rotating assembly kits for stroker conversions.
 

vinmhslax15

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a 350 has plenty of potential, idk what your talking about but u can get 500+ hp out of a 350 pretty easily...
 

treepete

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how much HP could be gotten out of a 305? NA, I mean. think you could squeeze 350hp out of it?
 
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