Sway Bar Bushing/End Link Replacement


New Member
Feb 24, 2009
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Member here asked about squeeking and rattling coming from the front over bumps. Sway bar bushings and end links were the likely culprit. I too had the same symptoms, and coupled with the fact that my Tahoe (@169K and with many of them riding on a lift in its previous life) had more body roll in the corners than Dan Gurney hitting the apex at LeMans in an 84 Dodge Caravan, they should be replaced. Note before you get started, if you don't have wobble extension, or a universal joint coupler in 3/8, buy one. Also, know what size your sway bar is before you go get parts. Don't guess. Take out your dial caliper and measure it (or tape measure and math skills). This job can be done on the ground with just a jack and jackstands, and honestly unless you have some of those really tall twist jacks, you may be better off not doing it on a rack.

Before jacking the truck up, loosen the end links on both sides. 14MM on top and bottom, they will turn. Mine were loose, penetrating oil may be necessary as well as air tools and/or a saw-zall. They can be removed now. It may seem like the bolts won't come from the bottom due to the angle at which they are in the control arm, but don't out think yourself. Pull the old bushings, spacer bar, and eventually you will be able to wiggle the long bolt enough to drop right out.

At this point if you want, jack the car up. Using a 10MM and some clever maneuvering, remove the two bolts that hold the bushing to the frame on either side. Once loose, remove the bushing and save the metal bushing caps unless your kit came with new. I've read where you are to replace the bolts, mine looked in good shape, so I did not.

This next part is kinda tricky. You might thing to just place the new bushings on in the old spots, place the caps and bolt away. I used the MOOg K6453 (for 1 1/8" bars) bushings, and it was not so easy for me. They were simply too big to do they. I had to place them further from the ends after greasing them slightly, and the push them inward into position. Then the caps will go over them. Starting the bolts are challenging in that the bushing are so new and not so squishy. Once in, tighten them down slightly.

Okay, many people say that removing the wheel isn't necessary and I agree, but it makes it much easier in my opinion. With the car on jack stands(or a lift) place your jack under the ball joint, and jack it up until the control arms are roughly level. This will make the bolt much easier to get lined up with every thing. Place washer, then bushing onto bolt, push up through lower control arm, then another bushing, another washer, spacer tube, then washer, then bushing, into sway bar, bushing, washer, and finally nut. Pretty self explanatory here. If your are like me, there were not enought threads for the nut to get started on the washer. I took the washer off, ran the nut down a ways until it kinda compressed and seated everything, took it off and reinstalled the washer. Don't tighten quite yet. Repeat for other side.

Move to the sway bar bushing cap's bolts. Tighten these down and torque to 20 lb ft. Replace wheels if you haven't already, and then remove from jack stands. With car on the ground, tighen the end link bolts until they are tight and the bushings are seated against their mating surfaces. Dont get too crazy.

Take it for a spin and if your like me, try to keep your jaw from hanging up in the steering wheel every time you take a corner. :happy160: