Tahoe Fuel lines R/R

Discussion in 'Technical Discussions' started by stilllearning6, Oct 7, 2020.

  1. stilllearning6

    stilllearning6 New Member

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    2003 Tahoe with 5.3 Liter Flex fuel :

    Fuel line rusted and dripping just like the OEM brake lines rusted and burst years ago.

    I ordered stainless steel replacement set ($200 ) which includes:
    3/8 inch supply, in two sections but no fuel filter included
    5/16 inch return , in two sections
    vapor line , unknown sections
    three rubber hoses : 3/8 inch for engine bay area attachment ( fuel rail ; why ??)
    two rubber hoses. : 5/16 inch for transmission area attachment ( FLEX fuel sensor : why ??)

    I was informed that a 9/16 inch hex nut or bolt secures the OEM fuel line bracket near top of transmission.

    An internet search failed to yield a tech step by step.
    Can anyone prep me for this job?

    I was told that the tank does not have to be removed to attach the new fuel lines to the pre-existing fuel pump rubber hoses that sit atop of the fuel tank.
    Good news , if it were true.

    There are, supposedly, two quick disconnect rubber hoses at the forward edge of the fuel tank which eliminates the need to drop the tank.
    No need to touch fuel pump connections, I hope.

    However , to see the rubber hoses, it is my understanding that :
    "you must first remove the evaporative canister which resides at the forward side of the fuel tank".

    Any guidance appreciated.
    Very unsure of :
    what to expect,
    what are the obstacles,
    what is the purpose of the new rubber hoses for engine bay area and transmission area?
     
  2. PNW NBS Z71

    PNW NBS Z71 Member Supporting Member

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    Best to look at a few you tube videos of that work before you tackle it. Dealing with the rust and problems from that will not allow this job to be easy. The lines at the tank will be a flexible plastic line and not rubber unless it has been changed over. Due to the rust the disconnects will be a pain. The metal lines will be a challenge because of rust and the routing and make sure you use line/flare wrenches when removing and replacing the fittings at the ends where they will be threaded.
     
  3. stilllearning6

    stilllearning6 New Member

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    Yes, you are correct.
    This posted Oct 7,2020.
    Since then, I posted numerous issues/obstacles that hindered my progress.
    Most issues were due to severe rust / aging causing disconnect delays, and manhandling caused additional $$ component damage.
    A 2 day job has evolved into 3 weeks with down time, rain delays and parts delivery.
     
  4. PNW NBS Z71

    PNW NBS Z71 Member Supporting Member

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    When you reassembled, hopefully you applied a thin film of grease at the o-rings where the quick connects attached at the lines. Is it all done now and working? If I was under there I would have replaced the evaporator cannister while in there. I am a very firm believer in replacing old parts that I remove when disassembly is being done. I am talking about wear items and not all items. If you have other questions about your NBS rig, please start a post and I will look to try and help. By the way, I recommend putting your rig details in your signature so that it is always there when you post and then you won't forget. See my signature as an example.
     
  5. stilllearning6

    stilllearning6 New Member

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    Thank you for the advice about lubricating the O-rings at quick disconnects fuel line connections.
    Bad weather keeps me from vehicle reassembly for 3 days.

    I am trying to figure out the signature detail stuff.
    I appreciated your experience/wisdom in several posts.
     
  6. PNW NBS Z71

    PNW NBS Z71 Member Supporting Member

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    I see the vehicle info in your signature.