Can I get away with just ONE new bearing?

[treepete]

Hey gents,
I was looking over the 99 denali yesterday, and its been making this grinding noise up front. I thought at first it was brakes rubbing or wearing out... but then when I had the wheel off, I took off the rotor ( its shot) and inspected the pads... they were getting down there too. so its time to bust out pads and rotors for both sides in front...
anyway, with the rotor and caliper out of the way, i turned the hub back and forth and the grinding sound was still there.

Im fairly certain that the bearing is getting crappy on me... it hasnt made any other sounds but this grinding noise... and the noise doesnt change when i brake or turn etc.. it just get more pronounced when im at higher speeds.
Ive been turning the radio up to solve the problem so far

So the question finally is; When replacing the wheel bearing, must I replace both driver AND passenger side simultanoiusly? or it OK just to replace the grinding side? I ask because it would be cutting into my magnaflow exhaust connector budget.

anyway, your thoughts are appriciated. Also, if theres anything i may have missed while examining the source of the sound, please let me know.

Thanks again in advance for your help on this.

Pete

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

it would be a good idea to replace both if one is starting to fail as a preventative measure. but you don't HAVE to replace both at the same time.

may want to check the other side if you haven't already to make sure its not making any noise either.

 

[treepete]

yeah, good point. Maybe I should look into getting both knocked out right away. Ill be spending today trying to locate part numbers and maybe some parts store around here has them.
OK thanks for the advice, Ill check the other side as well.

 

[Dianne Skinner]

My experience is, just like all mechanical devices, every part has its unique duty cycle, barring extraordinary circumstances. Due to the cost and no time gain benefit, I do one side at a time. You can listen for noise from the other one carefully, brake pads clear, and if there is _any_ noise, you can always replace it too. Be certain to replace the entire hub assembly, bearings, seals, hub, lugs and all, and be certain to get the _original_ part number..... The cost is not that much greater. This is one place where the parts house book number might not be the bible! Good luck.

 

[treepete]

Thanks for the input, Diane. Welcome to the forum.

Is the part number stamped on the bearing assy? or how can I find it exactly without taking it out.
I would like to order the part THEN put it in. Instead of dissassemble/ reassemble/order install..
just trying to save time.

 

[mygreen98]

i dont believe there is a part # on the assembly, all 4wd/abs use the same hub assembly. easy to replace, just did one on mine. i'd also only change the one thats bad, not both. on ebay theyre about $90. from dealer or your local parts house probably $125 or more. i wouldnt wait for it online though, if its scrapping that bad , change it asap.

 

[Mad Dawg]

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure

Bearings are cheap, replacing a hub is not if you let the bearings go bad. Then you will have to replace the bearing and the hub.

 

[tspain]

The 4wd's use a non-serviceable hub/bearing assembly up front. It's one whole unit that you replace, which includes the wheel speed sensor.

If the other side isn't making any noise, and doesn't have any slack in it, grab the top and bottom of the tire while facing the wheel, and pull in and out, then it's ok. Don't replace it unless it is growling, or has excessive play.

Hope this helps you out some.