Sad tahoe.

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the baPhoon

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So my old headlight assemblies were shot.
Bit the bullet and bought a 200$ set of projector headlight assemblies for my HIDs. Now she just looks sad.
Both headlights are clocked 12° ish clockwise or counter clockwise depending on the side. Anyone know hoe yo adjust for that?

Pic.

 

lesterl

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Make shure you got the lenses in the buckets correctly.....
 

the baPhoon

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Everything is the way it should be as far as I can tell assembly wise. I can pull them back off and reinstall but I don't think that will help anything. I was wondering if there was an adjustment screw somewhere I'm missing. The vertical 5 mm posts appear to just hold the lenses in the plastic assembly tray...
 

the baPhoon

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The 6 liter is giving me hell also but that's a whole nother story. Had to go 80e swap as well. Woohoo.
 

MarkD51

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About a year ago, I replaced all my lights and lenses with aftermarket, and although my headlights were not this far off, when I put the Grill back on, the Headlight Assemblies did not look quite centered within the openings like the stock factory lights did.

So, I made note of which directions each light assembly needed to go, and then decided to dismount them and whip out dremel tool and go to work.

It encompassed elongating pretty much all 4 holes for each assembly, then shifting, and tightening.

I got them perfect after two re-fits of Grill.

You'll most likely encounter the same thing, that after Grill replacement, they'll then really look off. What I did is about all you can do.
Mark
 

the baPhoon

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That was my last resort option if there was no way to adjust them. One of my stockers was tilted and I pulled it off the mounting bracket by removing the two long 5 mm screws and just simply set them bavk in and it seems to have straightened it out. I got my 6000k HID high beams today so I'll try the reinstall tomorrow and see if it works. It's really futile right now as it seems my truck kicked out the tune. Had to replace my IAC in the 6 liter so it's not like I can drive it now anyway. Talked to my tuner and builder tonight and we should be getting her back on the dyno within the following weeks. Hoping to see 400 whp and around 430 foot pounds. Following that I'm going 6 over arms. Tubular uppers and plated lowers, gully boxed front frame where the 2.5 triple bypass coilovers will reside. Full engine cage and sticking with hiemed moly steering linkages and beastie uniballs (larger than what trophy trucks run because she's a fat) and trailer products 4 up 6 out glass. Then I'm still trying to decide what I want on the rear end, large pack Deavers and 2.5 double bypass resies or a 5 link setup with coilovers. But I'll burn that bridge once I get there
 

MarkD51

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DSCN0360.jpg

Here's how mine looked after I was done.

I stayed with the stock looking lights, as I was concerned of going with something non-stock, or projector style and then possibly having reduced light spread on the road at night. ( I do have the Hi-4 Kit, had this for a good number of years before the swap, and PIAA High Output Lamps-Bulbs)

Of course after installation, one then needs to do light beam alignment, and this can take some time as well. Too high, or too low is no good, as too high you're blinding oncoming drivers, or even torturing a driver right in front of you, too low and the lights are then ineffective, and of course one doesn't want the lights either crosseyed, or looking like Marty Feldman, with either the left beam going off far into another driving lane, or the right off in the ditch.

Finding and facing a wall of a building, and situating yourself on level ground at a few different fairly close distances (of say 10'-20' 40') was one method I used initially, as well as finding a dark secluded hardly traveled road, and also then some actual road testing outside of town. Proper alignment was in my eyes quite important, as where I live here, 3 minutes out of town, and there's nothing, no street-road lighting at all.

Another tip, and knew this from past experience, was taping and securing the socket to the 1/4" ratchet extension with a small piece of good duct tape, to adjust the two adjustment screws per light housing, as I once had one come off, and then the socket goes somewhere into Limbo, and is a SOB to then find. I simply used a 1/4" drive Screwdriver on the 1/4" extension, and had a good flashlight along when doing the adjustments in the dark.

Again, hope some of this helps you and others.
 

Slitrench

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Wher did you buy your replacement head lights. i want to stay with the stock look. Can you provide part numbers for the bulbs you bought and the stock lights as well. Much thanks.
 

the baPhoon

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These are spyder projector headlights with HID conversion high beams. Headlight assemblies are

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004WMF8SG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1429640614&sr=8-1&keywords=1997+tahoe+spyder+chrome+headlights&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51lWcsr%2ByAL&ref=plSrch

HIDs are

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZF39T0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1429640724&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=1997+tahoe+kensun+hid&dpPl=1&dpID=51ZQNC798dL&ref=plSrch
 

tonymania

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View attachment 6903

Here's how mine looked after I was done.

I stayed with the stock looking lights, as I was concerned of going with something non-stock, or projector style and then possibly having reduced light spread on the road at night. ( I do have the Hi-4 Kit, had this for a good number of years before the swap, and PIAA High Output Lamps-Bulbs)

Of course after installation, one then needs to do light beam alignment, and this can take some time as well. Too high, or too low is no good, as too high you're blinding oncoming drivers, or even torturing a driver right in front of you, too low and the lights are then ineffective, and of course one doesn't want the lights either crosseyed, or looking like Marty Feldman, with either the left beam going off far into another driving lane, or the right off in the ditch.

Finding and facing a wall of a building, and situating yourself on level ground at a few different fairly close distances (of say 10'-20' 40') was one method I used initially, as well as finding a dark secluded hardly traveled road, and also then some actual road testing outside of town. Proper alignment was in my eyes quite important, as where I live here, 3 minutes out of town, and there's nothing, no street-road lighting at all.

Another tip, and knew this from past experience, was taping and securing the socket to the 1/4" ratchet extension with a small piece of good duct tape, to adjust the two adjustment screws per light housing, as I once had one come off, and then the socket goes somewhere into Limbo, and is a SOB to then find. I simply used a 1/4" drive Screwdriver on the 1/4" extension, and had a good flashlight along when doing the adjustments in the dark.

Again, hope some of this helps you and others.

Nice, thanks for the tip!
 

Slitrench

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I like the original look. Can you provide part numbers for the light covers and turn signals and where you bought them. In addition, can you recommend a good bright bulb. Thank you in advance.
 

lesterl

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I bought a stock set "eagle eyes" brand, came with headlights, buckets, turn signals, side marker lights, and side reflector lights. Make shure you get your brand (GMC/Chevy are different on the side markers...)
 
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